Chainsaws

[seedcorn]

This conversation has brought up something else for me. If I have a gas-powered tool I hardly ever use the seals seem to dry out. They are not getting lubricated regularly so they too often fail when I start the tool back up. It's often hard to crank the tool. That reminds me, I need to crank my generator today.

You can have issues with a battery powered tool also. Batteries don't hold a charge indefinitely and some get weaker over time. A plug-in is limited to where you can run a cord. Different things to consider.

Living in the city now with very limited yard space If I were buying a new lawn mower I'd probably go electric. Not sure if it would be battery or plug-in.

Understand as with city lot I’d look at battery mower myself.

On other thought, machines all have pros/cons. That is why making decisions is tough. All end up being money drains.

 

[Ridgerunner]

I'll post a question here since I mentioned it above but also tag @Lickbranchfarm and @majorcatfish to make sure they see it. After leaving it set up for two years, gas drained and otherwise set up for the move down here, I put gas in my 5500 Watt Troybilt generator with a 14.50 Briggs & Stratton Engine. It started first pull. I was surprised, sure did not expect that.

The problem is that I could never take it off of full choke. Move the choke just a bit and it would die. I let it run for about 15 minutes before killing it. I did not put a load on it. Air filter is clean like new. Oil level is good and it looked clean though I'll probably change it just on principle if I can get this straightened out. Gas is Shell's 93 octane, that's the way I get unleaded.

What is going on? Did some seal or something dry out or dry rot from not being lubricated. Any suggestions as to what I could try other than a certified Briggs & Stratton repairman. I would like to have it available for hurricane season.

 

[ducks4you]

I would have it serviced soon. I bought 2 used riding mowers 2 years ago from my repairman, now retired. One was a John Deere, and he recommended only running 1 hr, then let it cool. With our tractor mower it will now not have an hour's worth of work/mowing day. The other, a Toro, just plain quit on me in November, 2018. I pushed it back into it's storage area, and left it. My friend, who helps with hay/other jobs, and has an associate in mower repair couldn't start it, and he said he would take it for parts. HE had a friend, same mower, who wanted it. He took it apart, and it had cracked a major gear. His Friend was able to cannibilize it.
If I knew how to do so, I Would take apart my mowers when I have trouble. Otherwise I destroy my push mowers, except for this bag mower that has a Honda engine. I have almost worn out the bag, but it keeps running.

 

[valley ranch]

By a good one ~ I offered my daughter a Torque Wrench form a Virus Junk store ~ she said No ! " you get what you pay for and bought one Made in America which I borrowed to torque my front end when I rebuilt it ```

 

[valley ranch]

I

The problem is that I could never take it off of full choke. Move the choke just a bit and it would die. I let it run for about 15 minutes before killing it. I did not put a load on it. Air filter is clean like new. Oil level is good and it looked clean though I'll probably change it just on principle if I can get this straightened out. Gas is Shell's 93 octane, that's the way I get unleaded.

What is going on? Did some seal or something dry out or dry rot from not being lubricated. Any suggestions as to what I could try other than a certified Briggs & Stratton repairman. I would like to have it available for hurricane season.

If you can't take it off full choke ~ go on the internet and find the: primary Carb Setting for that engine and carb, , once it's running good you can tweek it slightly from there if you wish ~ it's adjusted tooooo lean , and with the choke on it fattens the mixture ```

Best of luck ```

 

[majorcatfish]

my best 3 guess's
1. you have crap in the carburetor ,so not letting enough fuel in..
depending on what type of carburetor you have <if it's a float type> would say the rubber o-rings have rotted and are clogging the needle/ seat.... with that said it could be rust for being stored in a high humidity area..look into the fuel tank and see if theres rust.. best to just have the carburetor replaced...it's cheaper than rebuilding it you have a 50/50 shot having someone rebuilding it..
if you see rust inside the tank<if metal> replace
if it's a vacuum type of carburetor..replace
2. the fuel line has a crack in it.. so your sucking in air..
carefully twist the fuel lines see if you see or feel any fuel on your hands... if the lines are clear plastic and you see any discoloration.... replace easy to do
3. if it has a primer bulb.. it might have a crack in it .... this one is a no brainier

do recommend using non ethanol fuel..... regular fuel grades has it 10-15% it eats plastic and crates rust...

sure you use fuel for all your gas toys.. either type of fuel recommend using a good fuel stabilizer. personally i do this every time i fill the cans, and dont let the generator set there dry keep it full, a empty or partial tank will allow moisture to crate rust..

with a high quality fuel stabilizer it will let the fuel stay good for 8-12 months.... plus run the generator once every month, nothing worse to find out it's not going to run when you need it the most..

your hurricane season is coming soon..

hope this helps

 

[valley ranch]

Crap in the Carb ~ that sounds like a song ~ you could be right ~ a touch or Marvel Oil should do the trick ```

 

[Ridgerunner]

Thanks. I'll check the fuel line first, it's easiest. No primer bulb. I don't think it's rust, did not see any in the fuel tank. I guess the carburetor is most likely.

 

[ducks4you]

What is "Marvel Oil?"

 

[ducks4you]

Impatience!!!
Thank you, Wikipedia.
"Marvel Mystery Oil is a product of the Marvel Oil Company, founded by Burt Pierce. It is used as a fuel additive, oil additive, corrosion inhibitor, penetrating oil, and transmission leak stopper and seal relubricator."
I thought that penetrating oil needed to be used sparingly, like when trying to remove the nut from a rusted bolt?
Thoughts?!?!?