Educate me on square foot gardening...

[Friend2Fowl]

I've seen a lot on here about this, as well as with google searches. But I have a lot of questions regarding square foot gardening. A friend had suggested lasagna gardening, but I don't think that would work; my garden area is huge (approx. 30'x50'), it would take me a few years to have enough to make a 6"-8" deep bed there. Square foot gardening seems like the better choice in my situation.

According to the Square Foot Gardening Foundation, the beds should be 4'x4', or multiples of 4. Each bed should be divided into 12"x12" squares.

Question #1: Is the soil divided (like a spacer), or is the divider just on top of the soil? What is the benefit of this?

The SFGF says to use equal parts compost, peat moss, and coarse vermiculite, but I'm on a very limited budget. I doubt I could use just soil (we have very clay-ey ground), but could I use some soil mixed with some compost and some peat moss? Would sand work as well as peat moss?

None of the sites I visited (including this one) really went into detail on the number of plants per square foot. I believe the SFGF site said basically 1 plant per square? How is this cost/space effective?

Any help is appreciated, I need to get started on this, the sooner the better. I wanted to start my garden last month, but couldn't get anyone to plow it. I am still having trouble getting it plowed, but a neighbor has offered his tiller 'as soon as his son is done using it'...whenever that is.

 

[LVVCHAP]

Question #1: Is the soil divided (like a spacer), or is the divider just on top of the soil? What is the benefit of this?

Square foot gardening is just the concept of dividing the garden beds in quare feet. Beds four feet wide are a good size to work with. You are not to walk in that area, from the edges you can reach in 2 feet. I have 2 - 3 ft. walkways in between. The rest is how far apart to plant everything. You would be surprised at how close together plants can grow. When they are close together there is less room for weeds. My garden is about the same size as yours I included a pic of how mine is set up. I don't follow everything by the book but feel it is a great way to garden. Also, when adding manure or compost you don't have to add to the whole area, only in the beds.

 

[hangin'witthepeeps]

The peat moss and compost is important. For money reasons I used top soil mixed with compost from my local nursery. It has already compacted a lot with watering. The soil needs to be loose and "fluffy". When I water the top soil the top is wet and muddy, but if you stick your finger through the soil, it's dry. I was wondering why my plants were droopy, the roots were not getting enough water. I will try to amend this as best I can this weekend with peat moss. I hope I don't kill anything. The compost adds nutrients and fertilizer to your soil to feed the plant. Regular fertilizer would burn your plants directly applied.

 

[patandchickens]

Question #1: Is the soil divided (like a spacer), or is the divider just on top of the soil? What is the benefit of this?

The divider just lies on top of the soil. The benefit of this is that it feeds the ego of the developer of the system, who sounded like a fairly normal human being in the first edition of the book a long time ago, but in the recent new edition he reveals himself as needing either his ego or his medications adjusted (or possibly both). He is maniacally insistant on people laying that divider on there, 'so that it looks like a Square Foot Garden', presumably so that people will think of HIM when they see it.

Meanwhile back in reality, if you can eyeball things fairly accurately yourself, there is honestly no need for strings or sticks atop the soil at ALL. If you are not so naturally talented in that department, strings or sticks are fine

The SFGF says to use equal parts compost, peat moss, and coarse vermiculite, but I'm on a very limited budget. I doubt I could use just soil (we have very clay-ey ground), but could I use some soil mixed with some compost and some peat moss? Would sand work as well as peat moss?

The mix he recommends is, while not especially high-nutrient, VERY loose and humusy-yet-well-draining, and allows plants to root extremely easily through it. You can use whatever else you want, just recognize you may not get as stellar harvests. Sand would substitute (sort of, kind of, not really) for the *vermiculite*, but not for the peat moss -- sand is a granular mineral texturing material, whereas peat moss gives excellent water-holding capacity (which sand doesn't do at ALL).

Really, just do the best you can to make decent loose moisture-retentive yet well-drained soil, and you'll be ok

None of the sites I visited (including this one) really went into detail on the number of plants per square foot. I believe the SFGF site said basically 1 plant per square? How is this cost/space effective?

No no, look again at their website or book -- spacing, i.e. # plants per square, depends on the KIND of plant. You would grow one tomato plant per square but like 16+ radishes. Depends on the plant. Look it up, really

It is space-efficient because you are packing the plants in as tight as possible, and also (ideally) packing them in so that you put early-harvested things amongst later-harvested ones to occupy initially-unused space.

You do not need anyone to plow for you, for a square foot type garden. The whole point is that you are growing a lot on a SMALL area. Just hand-dig, or get someone to rototill, you a small area, maybe enough for four 4x4 beds, and make up some good amended soil for them, and go with that for this year. You can *also* plant some traditional row-style crops in the rest of your area, of course

Good luck, have fun,

Pat

 

[digitS']

The decision must come very early on as to whether to fully commit to Mr. Bartholomew's rigorous soil formula, or not. With such a commitment of time and material, you will be "in for a penny, in for a pound." Always looked to me like pounds and pounds . . .

"Stellar harvests," Pat? Is he still making those claims ? There are lots of ways to turn out some produce and horizontal production isn't necessarily more inefficient or labor-intensive than vertical. How much material and vigor you bring to the garden, depends on the individual gardener. Then there is the horizontal and vertical space you have to work with.

In this part of the world, I've never had more than 8" of topsoil to work with. I believe in topsoil , couldn't be more committed to it. However, it is heavy.

This year, the beds in one part of the large garden are rotating from one direction to another. It hardly matters that so much soil needs to be removed from the paths because of this change. This large garden is cultivated by a large tractor with a rototiller attachment. That tool show no respect for my "permanent" paths! I'm back with various implements after it passes thru.

The tractor guy has done just a super job on most of the ground!. Last year's paths are, essentially, indiscernible out there . . . Now . . . to the shovel :/.

Steve

More plant spacing calculations than you can wade thru at a single sitting from Kentucky State University.

 

[Andy J]

I'm experimenting with a 4'X8' SFG myself.I read Mr. Bartholomew's book and it made a lot of sense.I have a conventional 35'X75' garden that covers most of my gardening needs.

I,too,am not going to spend money buying vermiculite,peat moss and other things that Mr. Bartholomew recommends.This is a frugal project,as is most homesteading things that I do.My soil was almost pure sand,pushed off the side of a hill into a gully,when my house site was prepared for building.I've added leaves,butterbean and peahulls,grass clippings and chicken fertilizer the last three years to build the soil,and it's now in really good shape.

As for plant spacing,if what you're doing works,that's great.If it isn't working ,change it;it's just that simple.

I plan on expanding this SFG,because there's no doubt it's a lot less work.I ain't a spring chicken any more.

Andy J

 

[dickiebird]

For those who have never heard Mr. Bartholomew, go to You Tube and search his name. patandchickens has his personality down pat, quite full of himself.
I have read his earlier work, which seemed fine, but now he is just over the edge.
There's a lot of good advice in this thread, take what will work the best for you and run with that.

THANX RICH

 

[lesa]

LVVCHAP, that is one lovely looking garden plot!! Nice job! I always feel the need to add my two cents, whenever anyone mention sqft gardening. I love the idea of raised rows- they are great for a variety of reasons. You don't really need the wood around the area. If you like the way it looks, or your own soil is worthless, then go for it. But, in the veggie garden I just hill the soil up and have at it. I do have some raised beds, for herbs and decoration- but the raised rows are easy and wonderful....JMO

 

[Ladyhawke1]

I've seen a lot on here about this, as well as with google searches. But I have a lot of questions regarding square foot gardening. A friend had suggested lasagna gardening, but I don't think that would work; my garden area is huge (approx. 30'x50'), it would take me a few years to have enough to make a 6"-8" deep bed there. Square foot gardening seems like the better choice in my situation.

According to the Square Foot Gardening Foundation, the beds should be 4'x4', or multiples of 4. Each bed should be divided into 12"x12" squares.

Question #1: Is the soil divided (like a spacer), or is the divider just on top of the soil? What is the benefit of this?

The SFGF says to use equal parts compost, peat moss, and coarse vermiculite, but I'm on a very limited budget. I doubt I could use just soil (we have very clay-ey ground), but could I use some soil mixed with some compost and some peat moss? Would sand work as well as peat moss?

None of the sites I visited (including this one) really went into detail on the number of plants per square foot. I believe the SFGF site said basically 1 plant per square? How is this cost/space effective?

Any help is appreciated, I need to get started on this, the sooner the better. I wanted to start my garden last month, but couldn't get anyone to plow it. I am still having trouble getting it plowed, but a neighbor has offered his tiller 'as soon as his son is done using it'...whenever that is.

I was on a limited budget too. Therefore, I stopped eating so much and invested in my garden. :/ My garden became more important.

My first suggestion is buy the ALL NEW SQUARE FOOD GARDENING book by Mel Bartholomew. It is about 20 bucks, or go to Home Depot and pick up the Miracle Grow Complete Guide to Vegetables Fruits & Herbs. This sells for about $18.00.

It is ok to ask questions, however you can save a lot of time and money by having some good information in front of you to review as often as needed. :bee

Now as in life not everyone will agree and I have found out there are over a zillion ways to do the same thing. You just use your instincts and pick what works for you. And you can still ask those questions to others with some experience. Nothing is written in stone.

If you are youngif you are lucky, you have lots of time and energy to do everything. If you are an old fogey like me, you have a lot of time and no energy and no patience. I want it and I want it now!

Good luck! :weight

 

[obsessed]

I wished I could do it buyt I like tgo just plant and I have kids helping me who refuses to put things where I ask them. Maybe on day. But I still don't see how a tomato can only take up 1 sf. Cause I know a cherry that can just get crazy!