FWIW I do things a bit differently (I am too lazy to carry lotsa plants around unless it is really unavoidable

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There are three things you are hardening them off "for" -- temperature, sun exposure and wind/air-movement. All three are important, in the sense that if you screw up on any one of them, the other two become irrelevant b/c your plant is badly damaged or dead.
During times of year when temperature is an issue, I use a coldframe, either located on well-warmed ground right against the brick-faced house, or stuffed with as many filled jugs o' water as I can get in there, or both. (Only experience will teach you how many degrees of frost this will or won't protect your plants against, in your particular setup and situation). When no freeze is going to happen -- or no temps into 30s for more sensitive things like peppers or tropicals -- I don't worry about it and have had no obvious problems over the years.
So, with that thermal buffering if it's needed, I put the plants out initially in full shade (either on E side of house behind cedar hedge, or under big pine tree in front, or in front porch cold frame with something draped completely over it for shade) and with full wind protection (coldframe basically closed, or plants by house wall or under pine tree enclosed in high-sided wooden frame with a coupla layers of old windowscreens on top).
After a day or two, depending on the weather and how fragile the plants seem, I will open things up a little -- open up the cold frame according to weather conditions, remove some or all screens from atop boxes. If it is guaranteed to be all-cloudy weather I will remove most of the shade too; if it is sunny or partly, I am much more cautious. IMO it is better to go too slow than too fast with sun and wind exposure.
I gradually unshade and open the coldframe more and more, and according to the weather move the other plants out of the shelter of their boxes, til they are basically hardened off. The ones beside the house and under the pine may have to get moved to a part-sun location nearby if they are destined for full-sun planting, but since I usually part-shade them with pine boughs or cedar boughs when I transplant them, I don't get too obsessive about getting them into FULL sun before transplanting.
The exact steps and rate really depend hugely on the weather. I am having a "breeze" hardening off some lettuce, spinach and tomatoes this week, because it happens to be mostly cloudy and quite warm. Also windy, but they got used to some air mvmt before the wind started and are in a somewhat sheltered location so that is not really a complication. In very sunny very cold weather it requires more thought and judgement and going slowly.
I am also a big fan of not just plopping them into an open garden and saying 'fly, be free!' when they're transplanted. Most plants, I will either pile some handfuls of tall dead grass all over them (the wind usually removes it gradually over the next few days, or if not, I do) or shelter them with trimmed pine or cedar boughs, and for plants I really care a lot about or realize I'm planting into a bit iffy conditions I will also place a large rock or brick or piece of concrete rubble on the S and/or W sides of them, for thermal ballast and windbreak and to keep the roots moist.
So, there are lots of ways of doing it, but that's basically mine

I think the bottom line is to not be in a hurry, not make sudden changes in nighttime low temps OR wind exposure OR sun exposure, and to play it according to the weather.
Pat