How critical is thinning out the other seedlings?

archangel

Sprout
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
7
I have planted seeds that have sat in the garage for the last 5 years, so I thought there might be some losses from the seed ages.

Other than the bell peppers that are taking their own sweet time getting started (as after a month only a few are starting to poke out)
everything is coming up thick.

The tomato seeds came up to as many as 5 to a pod.

I transplanted them to some small pots and if there were more than 2 sprouting, I trimmed them down to two per beat pod as I planted them into the pots just in case there might be some.

In nature, I'm sure that nobody is around to thin them.

What are the pros and cons to the whole thinning thing?

Am I going to have a serious problem with two plants growing in close proximity to each other?

In the past I have had a plant or two but this is the first time I'm starting a large (well, any garden) from seeds.

I also have squashes, zucchini,various melons, corn, beans and peas waiting for the raised bed garden to be put together and the ground to thaw.
 

journey11

Garden Master
Joined
Sep 1, 2009
Messages
8,470
Reaction score
4,228
Points
397
Location
WV, Zone 6B
:welcome

I used to hate to thin too, kinda sentimental and all! :lol: But no really, the one alone stands a better chance of being a strong healthy plant if it is not competing with another for resources. They really do need their personal space you could say. Sometimes you can separate them gently and pot them up separately and they'll perk back up and keep going, but you stand the chance of injuring them and losing one or both anyway. The most practical thing to do is let the strongest one live and cut the weaker one out with scissors. It will do better by itself.

On your bell peppers being slow to sprout, you probably need more heat for them. They just won't sprout if the soil is too cool, and they like it a little hotter than most other things.

Good luck! :)

ETA: Also, as much as I hate to have to thin (and waste a valuable seed) I am more willing to plant only one to a cell and take my chances that a couple will not come up at all, yet get to keep all that do come up.
 

BlueRose

Chillin' In The Garden
Joined
Mar 7, 2010
Messages
38
Reaction score
0
Points
27
Location
California
journey11 said:
ETA: Also, as much as I hate to have to thin (and waste a valuable seed) I am more willing to plant only one to a cell and take my chances that a couple will not come up at all, yet get to keep all that do come up.
Good point!

And ohh, that's what thinning means.
 

Ridgerunner

Garden Master
Joined
Mar 20, 2009
Messages
8,229
Reaction score
10,062
Points
397
Location
Southeast Louisiana Zone 9A
Welcometo this forum. Glad you are here and hope you stick around. Might I suggest you modify your profile to show which area you are in? That could really help in our discussions on a lot of topics.

Most of what we grow would not survive in nature, even a lot of what we consider invasive plants in our gardens. These plants have been modified by selective breeding to produce varieties and plants that perform well in controlled circumstances but they would not flourish and often would not survive in the wild. They cannot stand the competition of grasses and other plants, including plants of their own variety. If they are planted too thickly, they compete with each other for nutrients, moisture, and sunlight and none of them produce all that well. They may hold in more moisture in the foilage which can invite certain diseases if they are too thick. Natue would not thin them, it would eliminate them in their current form.

When you have more than one plant per pod or pot, the roots grow together and can be very difficult to separate at planting time. The result is that you weaken the root system of what you are planting. This may be fatal, it may inhibit the growth of the plant, or it may not matter that much, depending on the plant type and how much damage you do when you separate them. I do not recommend it in any case, but I'd worry about tomatoes a lot less than squash.

Since you are planning raised beds, you space may be limited. I'm doing a 50' x 75' not raised bed garden and I consider my space limited. Hopefully you started enough individual pods and pots so that one plant in each will be all you need, probably with a few to spare in case some replanting is necessary. I don't see a lot of downside to allowing two plants per pod or pot grow until you set them out and see that they are going to live, but I do see a big downside (their competing with each other for nutrients, water, and especially sunlight) to allowing the weaker of the two to live and grow together.

Hope this helps. Good luck!!!
 

patandchickens

Deeply Rooted
Joined
Nov 23, 2007
Messages
2,537
Reaction score
3
Points
153
Location
Ontario, Canada
Thinning really does make a difference in your eventual yield, for nearly all crops.

Actually the only thing offhand I can think of that I do not thin, because it has not turned out to be worthwhile, is Lobelia (an annual flower, whose seed is truly dustlike but since the point is just to produce a clump of blue it is fine to have half a dozen of them growing in each others' laps). (Well, actually even with Lobelia it seems to help to thin little swaths through the clump if it's come up too densely)

Whether to thin destructively, with a thumbnail or scissors, or try to salvage the thinnings and replant elsewhere, depends IMO on how badly the two seedlings are on top of each other. If two seedlings are simply too close for eventual growth, you can almost always lift one out with the tip of a knife or lab spatula and move it to another pot. But if two (or more) are practically "growing out of the same hole", you are generally better off snipping all but the strongest one off at soil level. Only a few plants (such as tomatoes) that grow new roots *very* readily are good candidates for serious "separation surgery", in terms of how well the seedlings grow afterwards.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat
 

vfem

Garden Addicted
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
7,516
Reaction score
43
Points
242
Location
Fuquay, NC
I've been able to transplant some of my thinning just fine. Tomatoes seem to take really well for me... saves me time rather then trying to replant any that may not come up trying to be frugal. Time is important in gardening. :D

I don't mind thinning radish or lettuce.... those seeds are easy and cheap.

Just think you can afford quality over quanity when you are growing it yourself. :clap

Or at least that is what I tell myself when I see tomatoes are $3.99 lb, and lettuce heads are $2.50!!!! (And they are garbage, taste like nothing poor quality produce)
 

ducks4you

Garden Master
Joined
Sep 4, 2009
Messages
11,737
Reaction score
15,442
Points
417
Location
East Central IL, Was Zone 6, Now...maybe Zone 5
Did you see Hattie's link with all of the UK videos? There is one regarding beets, and how the nursery there decided to try NOT thinning their beets. Just about every multiple seedling pot developed several full-grown sized beets.

I, personally, am NOT going to thin my beets this year. Love to eat 'em, too much.

And, remember, DON'T pull--cut the tops off of the seedlings you don't want.
 

archangel

Sprout
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
7
I guess I'll wait and see until they get bigger and trim the lesser plant.

BTW, all of those that were planted, were at 5 seeds to a pod and for a few there is nothing showing as of yet.

Most of the tomato's (5 types total) came up 2, 3, and 4, and a couple 5's and 1's, but at least every tomato pod had sprouted something.

The bell peppers and the Brussels sprouts are at less then 50% so far.

Any ideas on where I can find the proper spacing for plants?

I plan on two raised beds next to each other spaced at least 3 or 4 feet apart so I can get the riding mower through.

I was thinking 4 or 5 feet wide planting surface so I can reach across at least 1/2 way across to care for things.

I also plan on using left over weed barrier with slits for the plants and cut grass for mulch.

I still have no idea on how long until I know the spacing.
 

digitS'

Garden Master
Joined
Dec 13, 2007
Messages
26,695
Reaction score
32,388
Points
457
Location
border, ID/WA(!)
. . . Any ideas on where I can find the proper spacing for plants?

I plan on two raised beds next to each other spaced at least 3 or 4 feet apart so I can get the riding mower through.

I was thinking 4 or 5 feet wide planting surface so I can reach across at least 1/2 way across to care for things. . .
First of all, don't go any wider than 4 feet. Just my opinion but I'm over 6' tall and I can't comfortably reach farther than 2' while standing/sitting in the path. You will need to be there for more than a few minutes and once or twice. Remember, there's no stepping on your bed . . !!

Here's a resource I've known about for a few years. These horticulturalists did a real good job writing it and providing useful information. "Small Plot and Intensive Gardening," Purdue University

They have included a table on spacing. It might be what you need.

Steve
 

Latest posts

Top