OldGuy43
Garden Ornament
Yet another beginner question. How deep should the soil be loose? Where I am the previous tenant used to drive big trucks all over the place and the soil is really compacted and rock hard.
How Deep is Deep Enough?
- Thread starter OldGuy43
- Start date
digitS'
Garden Master
I believe in depth but, I have never started a garden in recent decades where I thought there was more than 8" of topsoil. I did my best to loosen the soil to that depth and build some greater depth. What I've found is that it has taken me a number of years to do that. If you are working with only a few hundred square feet and can continue to get those dang rocks out of your way -- things would go more quickly.
Probably, there are very few plants that don't require, at least, 4 to 6" of soil for minimum development of their root system. If the soil isn't too compact below that level, they may very well gain a few more inches of depth on their own.
We talked a little once before about rototillers. One complaint I have about the ones I've had is that their ability to get below about 6" is very limited. Even getting to that depth can require some real time . . . especially, if you are skipping off rocks. Of course, you can go UP instead of down by adding compost and other amendments.
The ground where I have gardened the longest has been worked with a spading fork. That gets me to 11". But the getting there can't usually be made immediately. For one thing, unless I'm going to pile on the compost, I don't start with more that 8" of topsoil and below that is unkind subsoil, of one sort or another. But, I can work at it . . .
Just working in plant wastes that are pretty much generated right there - and loosening the ground a little more each year - I'll get to 11" in 3 or 4 seasons. After that, it is a matter of matter - keeping the organic matter adequate to lift the soil above that unkind subsoil.
About the best thing you can do for your soil is to grow something in it! Even if it isn't going to make it into your kitchen, grow it as best you can and turn it under for the benefit of your soil organisms. I'm rambling here and the simple answer was, in my opinion, about 6", minimum.
Steve
Probably, there are very few plants that don't require, at least, 4 to 6" of soil for minimum development of their root system. If the soil isn't too compact below that level, they may very well gain a few more inches of depth on their own.
We talked a little once before about rototillers. One complaint I have about the ones I've had is that their ability to get below about 6" is very limited. Even getting to that depth can require some real time . . . especially, if you are skipping off rocks. Of course, you can go UP instead of down by adding compost and other amendments.
The ground where I have gardened the longest has been worked with a spading fork. That gets me to 11". But the getting there can't usually be made immediately. For one thing, unless I'm going to pile on the compost, I don't start with more that 8" of topsoil and below that is unkind subsoil, of one sort or another. But, I can work at it . . .
Just working in plant wastes that are pretty much generated right there - and loosening the ground a little more each year - I'll get to 11" in 3 or 4 seasons. After that, it is a matter of matter - keeping the organic matter adequate to lift the soil above that unkind subsoil.
About the best thing you can do for your soil is to grow something in it! Even if it isn't going to make it into your kitchen, grow it as best you can and turn it under for the benefit of your soil organisms. I'm rambling here and the simple answer was, in my opinion, about 6", minimum.
Steve
catjac1975
Garden Master
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2010
- Messages
- 9,019
- Reaction score
- 9,144
- Points
- 397
- Location
- Mattapoisett, Massachusetts
I would hire someone with a plow to loosen the soil as deep as possible. Add lots of organic material, leaves, manure of any type, any plant material. Plant a cover crop- winter wheat perhaps, and then till it in the spring. If you don't start with a good plowing I think you will struggle for years to get a good garden. That compression ruins the tilth of the soil. When we first began our garden, my husband would go "worm hunting ." Using a flashlight on a warm wet night he would pull up nightcrawlers in the lawn and release them in the garden. Worms are the best aeration for your soil. A layer of leaves will encourage worms to live in your garden. In New England we also need to add lime to the soil. I also use green sand every few years to add micronutrients back into the soil.
- Thread starter
- #4
OldGuy43
Garden Ornament
Thank you, but unfortunately a plow is not an option unless I tear down the fence. 
Originally fenced it as a dog run. Ah well, hindsight is always 20/20, huh?
Originally fenced it as a dog run. Ah well, hindsight is always 20/20, huh?
thistlebloom
Garden Master
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2010
- Messages
- 16,473
- Reaction score
- 17,411
- Points
- 457
- Location
- North Idaho 48th parallel
Call me crazy, but for the size of your garden you could do a lot of soil loosening with a good pick. Break it up into several sessions if you need to so you don't get overwhelmed.
I know this sounds weird, but I actually enjoy swinging a pick. Way more than jumping on a shovel anyway.l It's not that our soil is so hard, we just have so many blasted rocks.
I know this sounds weird, but I actually enjoy swinging a pick. Way more than jumping on a shovel anyway.l It's not that our soil is so hard, we just have so many blasted rocks.
- Thread starter
- #6
OldGuy43
Garden Ornament
Actually, I use a mattock, but at age 68 with emphysema and a heart condition not for very long. I had to break up my plot with one originally because the ground was so hard and rocky. It took about a month.thistlebloom said:
The size of the garden is not critical according to my opinion. But the quality of the soil is, so try to find which type of soil is the best for you.
online pokies
Cheers
online pokiesCheers
lesa
Garden Master
The other option is to forget the dirt that is there, and add rows of composted material or top soil. This is how I started my garden. The benefits are that the soil you are planting in, is super loose and easy to work with. Root veggies love it. The hard dirt (that you now have) becomes your aisles. The bad part- you may have to purchase dirt. But sometimes that is the way to go...
thistlebloom
Garden Master
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2010
- Messages
- 16,473
- Reaction score
- 17,411
- Points
- 457
- Location
- North Idaho 48th parallel
Good thinking Lesa!
livingintheshade
Sprout
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2011
- Messages
- 6
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 7
Hello. I am new to this forum (came in through the chicken forum) Anyway, I don't seem to do very well as a gardener. I live on top of a small mountain in the forest. That is my first problem. I have tried to terrace a part of the back yard which is steep. The real problem is the hardpack soil which I have been working on. I plan to build up by about 8-10 inches with terraced boxes. BUT the real problem is there is so much shade. I hate to cut down trees since I am not a very good gardener.
Should I have started another post?
Should I have started another post?
