I need an herbicide that will kill burrdock but won't hurt my horses

[ducks4you]

I almost had most of my burdock gone from my property. This wet Spring they came back with a vengeance. My horses were routinely being de-burred--I use corn oil--but they looked like they had dreadlocks! I figured out where the worst area was, around their apple tree, and cleaned most of this out, but there are still a LOT to get rid of.
Finally, the last straw!! I was out using my reciprocating saw to chop down the burr "trees" saturday, and the dust and the falling burrs got in my clothes. I have an awful rash all over my back and my shoulders, even WITH long sleeves and jeans. There has GOT to be an herbicide to kill the weeds--next year--but not poison my horses. These are their turnout/grazing pastures, and I really cannot close all of them off at the same time. Fortunately the North pasture is open enough that you can mow most of them down to nothing. The other pastures have fencing and trees.
Anybody got any animal safe ideas? ...help, my back is dying...

 

[catjac1975]

We have a Dragon weed torch that knocks back a lot of invasive weeds. It does a good job, but I am not certain that it is permanent. Persistence may keep it under control. As far as an herbicide goes I am not sure they do a permanent job either on such a deep rooted plant as burdock. And of course I would never think that they are truly safe for your horses. There is always smothering with heavy black plastic but that would not be safe for the horses if they are in the same pasture, and would take several seasons. Controlling them before they seed would be a good tool that is why I think persistence with a weed torch may be the best way to go, or even just mowing when they are small.
Nasty things!

 

[seedcorn]

I could give you answer but you and others won't like ir.

 

[897tgigvib]

Yuppers, the ole propane torch!

An added advantage of a propane torch is it satisfies any latent pyromania tendencies you may be harboring. (jest be uns careful!)

Then, ya's gets ta do it again each week!

There are also cans that have a hotter mix. Around here the cans of propane with the hotter mix are bright yellow. Those'll get the roots a bit deeper.

Fer a big area an official weed burner torch is best. Those attach to a good sized hand held usually white can of propane that is filled with regular lpg. The hotter mix comes in those smaller cans. Not sure if attachable to the weed torch, but I know they work with the smaller plumber torch.

 

[journey11]

You can go to the feed store and get the industrial strength version of non-descriminate weed killer. But that isn't necessary if you commit to mowing those weeds down. You need to mow or brush hog that area of pasture faithfully for a few years to keep it from going to seed again. Burdock is a biennial. The first year it will only make a crown of leaves. The second year it gets tall and goes to seed. I am not sure how long the seed would persist in the soil. What's already there may come up for a couple of years. Just don't let it go to seed again. It won't travel by wind, only by animals. Deer won't carry it in much, since the burrs need longer hair to get stuck in. Shorter critters won't either, since the seed heads are elevated a couple feet off the ground. Your horses/cattle are probably doing the most in reseeding it each year.

ETA: Burdock root is also a commonly used herbal tonic for liver cleansing. The roots can be dug in the fall of their first year (they are very deep and long...hard to get it all.)

 

[OldGuy43]

White vinegar works. Just spray it full strength while the weeds are growing. Mix a bit of detergent in to make it stick.

 

[ducks4you]

Journey, thanks. I didn't know that they were biennial.
Marshallsmyth, I wish I could do that. I really can't blowtorch most of them bc they took up residence under my fences and my fence posts are 8" diameter wood.
OldGuy, I'll try your suggestion on any growing near my house, where the horses don't graze.
I'll just continue attacking them throughout the Fall and winter. I'm thinking of running my small bag mower over the areas after I chop to pick up the burrs that fell. I have 2 burn piles. One is for pruning and my annual Columbus Day (2013) Salsa Party. That one is in my North Pasture, so I keep anything out of it that could harm my horses.
The other one is within the interior in front of the barn, where I use to have a burn barrel. THERE I burn any old wood with nails, and burdock, so that I can remove any metal. You might think it ironic that I use these ashes for my vegetable beds, but my soil in the beds has really been composted well and it's easy to de-weed any weed that tries to grow there. After a good rain they come out, root and all.

 

[journey11]

For the ones along the fence lines where your mower can't reach just manually remove the flower stalks. You can clip them off low to the ground shortly after they've set their flowers. Just be sure to remove them before the seed heads form. They won't have enough energy to send up another.

 

[catjac1975]

I put a new daylily bed along a horse fence where some noxious leathery leaved weeds were coming up. We torched them and I dug up the excessively large plants. Then I mulched them, first with heavy paper grain bags, and then leaves and grass clipping on top of those. Grain bags really help to smother many weeds. Time will tell but they have worked great in the past.

 

[ducks4you]

I had posted this on the Horse Forum and combined many of the good ideas written. As of today, I have been executing a plan. DH LOVES the idea of a torch, but he'll get that next Spring. For now, I am clearing small sections at a time of burdock from under my fencing with a hand branch pruner, moving them to my burn pile and burning them. The ashes and any surviving seeds will go into next year's beds where I can CONTROL THEM. Next I go back and rake any burrs that fall off, and they get burned. Finally, any shavings and/or used Equine Fresh bedding (It is made from super dried pine that is extruded into pellets, and it turns it powder when it soaks up urine), are dumped on top to smother what wants to grow up next year.
I have several fence lines all clear and I'm taking the WHOLE WINTER to clean up any that are left.
I have noticed that the pine shavings and Equine Fresh take a long time to break down into compost, plus they are non-toxic. BUT, I will be using Pasture Pro next Spring. My horse friends tell me that I should keep the horses off of those areas for about two weeks when I use it.
I am in TOTAL WAR with these things.
I'll give you After Action Reports, as they occur.