Meat rabbit questions for Hoodat (or anyone else for that matter)

[nachoqtpie]

So, hubs and I are thinking of making our journey into meat rabbits. I want to do American Chinchillas because they're some of the better meat rabbits (or so we've read) and they're an endangered American breed. So... we found a place that sells pedigreed rabbits $125 for a trio. Not that we will foray into showing rabbits any time soon, but you never know! Kids might want to do some for 4H or something. Not only that... my book says that their fur is very soft and collectible, so they're actually a dual purpose rabbit.

So... my questions are

When would be the best time to get these rabbits? (Meaning season wise, we know they can't breed until after they're 6 months old)

Since we have "mild" winters, would they need to be covered in the winter?

Would it be better to put them up next to the house so we can run a fan for them in the summer, but they will be in direct sunlight for about half the day, or behind the ducks and chickens where there's no electricity, but shade for most the day and we can put in frozen bottles? (I can take pictures of all of these places if you would like them)

Should we separate the hutches completely, or can we build a large divided hutch and put the buck between the 2 does with the sides touching?

These will PRIMARILY be meat rabbits, what sort of feed should we get them? Is it like chickens and have different levels of protein for different ages?

They say that a mature AC will weigh between 9-12 pounds... is "mature" age when you butcher? (10-12 weeks?)

Should we think about getting another buck from a different breeder so we have very distinct lines and can extend our breeding if we would like to?

I'm sure that I'll think if more questions... and you can feel free to tell me to get a book and read... but please at lease suggest a book!

 

[nachoqtpie]

I'm also going to post this on BYH and SS... so don't be offended if you're a member of either of those and see it posted there. I'm just trying to amass as much knowledge about this subject as I can before we dive into this adventure!

 

[bobm]

Large breed rabbits mature a little later than the smaller types, sometime between 6- 9 months of age. The most economical meat rabbits are New Zealand White and the California. They are the most efficient converters of feed to meat in a short period of time . The larger rabbits have larger bones therefore they grow them first, muscle later, so they take longer to finish to harvest weight. This makes a lower meat to bone ratio. As for the fur claim... the NZW and Cali.'s are just as soft. As for the fur being collectable, it may be if one is inclined ( as a hobby) to processing the pelts. However, the rabbits have to be processed at an older age ( young rabbit pelts are too thin and tear easily) and after their molt ( winter thick fur)to be of any use. As the rabbits get a little bit older and aproach sexual maturity, they will start to fight for dominance ( sometimes to the death) , fur will fly and ruin the pelt. Processing the pelts is quite tedious, time consuming and one has to use caustic chemicals... quite a pain in the butt. Not worth the effort. I have raised rabbits by the hundreds and never saved a pelt. I would not pay anywhere near the $ 125 for 3 rabbits meant for meat production. One can purchase rabbits any time that they are available. All rabbits need to be under a roof for shade at least 18" to 24" overhangs depending on how heavy the rainfall/ snow and wind is. They should also be protected from wind, so solid walls are needed but need good ventilation as amonia buildup can cause resperatory problems. They are quite tollerant of cold, but very susseptable to heat, so they need shade, protection from direct wind, good ventilation and one can run a small amount of water from a soaker hose on top of the roof to help radiate the heat away. It would be most economical to build one bank of individual cages side by side ... a smaller buck cage ( 24" w x 30" d) , doe cages ( 36" w x 30" d ), and grow out cage/s for weanlings ( 36" w x 30" d ). 18" tall is sufficiant. Housing in all wire hanging cages inside a small building where one can control lighting, temperature , ventilation, running water, dirt floor with sufficiant room to store feed and elbow room to work comfortably would be ideal. In my barn, I built rows of 20 back to back all wire hanging cages for does. with 3' away from all walls to keep their urine from hiting the walls ( unsightly, destructive to walls and unsanitary) , and, 4' isleways between banks for room to work at feeding and feces cleaning, weaning then harvesting for shipping/processing ( 4-5 lb. live weight) as well as torch burning of accuminated shed hair on the cage wire. In a small operation for your meat production, you can use the same buck for 2 years, then purchase a replacement buck. One should also keep back about 4 of the best and fastest growing females (weight at weaning time) from your lines. I would raise them in seperate cages ( build them at the same time as the original cages , in line or back to back same size as for the buck) as does are very territorial when approaching maturity and furr will fly. Then make a choice of the best 2 of the 4 at maturity. Also if one wants to expand, keep the 4. I would not keep any of the mature producing females beyond 2 years of age as their production will deminish and not be very economical to keep. Keep in mind that one should always take the doe to the buck's cage for breeding . Remove the doe after the buck breeds her 2-3 times, ie. he makes a grunting sound and falls off her back. Does ovulate upon sexual stimulation therefore they do not need to be bred more often then that on the same day, or they will produce all of their offspring at the same time and a number of that kindling may be not be mature or big enough to survive. Since does are very territorial, putting the buck into the doe's cage will, more likely than not, attack the buck , fur will fly and she may do great dammage to him. I hope this helps you in some way. Have fun with your new venture!

 

[nachoqtpie]

Yikes! This sounds a little more complicated than I thought it was going to be!

I guess we will need to do quite a bit more planning! I guess we are going to have to think about maybe constructing some sort of building. Would a open sided carport type building work?

That would give great airflow in the summer, and we could close it partially for winter, and would give us plenty of room to work.

Do you have any recommendations as far as books for us to read?

I will also look into finding less expensive rabbits as well.

 

[bobm]

Yes, a carport type of structure would work in mild weather, however when one starts to install a plastic/ tarp type of siding, the flapping in the wind just may cause the rabbits to panic and possibly kill themselves on the walls/ top with thrashing. I would recomend installing sheets of plywood as walls to deflect prevaling winds, and/ or slats on the other sides, then cover, as needed for strong winds/ rain/ snow, the slats on the outside of the slats with tarps with something to minimise flapping. Also I highly recomend some type of fencing to keep out dogs, cats and other nightly predators( coyotes, racoons, possums, hawks, owls, etc. ). As for building cages, I would use 1" x2" welded wire for the tops and sides , then use 1/2" x 2" welded wire for the bottoms. Use "J" clips ( not hog clips) and the recomended pliers to fasten the welded wires together. I would strongly recommend using at least 2 heavy guage wires running under the bottom welded floor wire ( fastened with "J" clips ands leantgh wise to stiffen the floor for a more solid surface and minimise sore/ raw hocks. Also use the heavy guage wire to hang all wire cages from the ceiling and at the ends of the banks to eliminate cage swaying as the rabbits move around. Install purchased sheet metal feeders on the outside of the cages and about 4" above the floor and at one end of the front of the cages. It saves lots of feeding time if you could also install the feeders of the adjoing cages close to/ next to one another. It would also save you much labor as well as avoiding spilled water from bowls if one were to install a galvanized pipe with nipples ( 1 each / cage) about 6+ inches from the floor. and along the back of the cage bank ( between the back to back cages) attached to a 5 gallon bucket placed above and at one end of the cages. The kits can reach for the nipple and the doe will not activate the nipple when she may lay down next to/ and below them. As for books, there are quite a few around, however they are mostly written by folks that only have pet rabbits or some do gooders with little ( any) actual knowledge of meat rabbit production. I would contact ( google) an Ag. University that has a rabbit research facility and ask for their publications on rabbit housing and husbandry. :bun

 

[Smiles Jr.]

Raising and keeping meat rabbits does not have to be complicated.

I raise New Zealand Whites and I have had very good luck with them. I got my starters from a neighbor 4-H girl for $15 to $20 each. They are culls from a champion line of NZWs. I have four does and two bucks. As long as they are healthy I don't care what they look like. But, luckily, all of mine have been beautiful.

In my opinion the 30"x30"x18" wire cages (or holes) are the easiest to keep clean and offer maximum ventilation. I have eight holes in two-high rows of four. The four gals are on top and the two guys are on the bottom with two grow out holes. I have had them out in a simple lean-to shed for years and they did just fine in 100F to -10F. If I know a wicked winter storm is coming I hang heavy canvas curtains on the two open ends of the lean-to. I do not think the rabbits even know it's cold. They're typically more sensitive to hot climate but they are hearty and do very well with enough ventilation. I usually do not breed during the three hottest months.

I only feed 16% pellets and offer some greens, carrots, and apple tree trimmings to does that are about to kindle. I'm considering growing several grains for their food in the future. You can find lists of vegetation that are safe to feed on the internet.

I usually process the young at around 12 weeks. Unless we have too many then I'll try to sell some. I like to process some of the hides now and then for the grand kids to make things. But young rabbits do not have the best pelts until they are about a year old and all of mine are gone before then.

Go ahead and get some rabbits of your choice. They can be fun and you will love them even more at meal time. Even the smaller breeds make wonderful table fare.

Good luck and keep us up to date on your progress.

 

[nachoqtpie]

Thanks guys. I just want to learn as much as I can before we start out. Of course, I was told that I'm "heartless" because I want to eat "poor defenseless baby bunnies." *eyeroll*

I just want to get a nice rabbit, good meat, and a good conversion. My daughter thinks everything is a pet and we just keep reminding her that these are food, not pets. She's only 9 and this is our first foray into farm life. She will hopefully get used to it.

I will definitely check out our local ag and see what they can help me with any information.

 

[catjac1975]

Why is it OK to eat animals as long as you bring it home wrapped in a plastic wrap? We ate home grown chicken for 30 years. Then our butcher went out of business. I don't think I could do the messy part of the job. It does sound like you really need to know what you are doing.

Thanks guys. I just want to learn as much as I can before we start out. Of course, I was told that I'm "heartless" because I want to eat "poor defenseless baby bunnies." *eyeroll*

I just want to get a nice rabbit, good meat, and a good conversion. My daughter thinks everything is a pet and we just keep reminding her that these are food, not pets. She's only 9 and this is our first foray into farm life. She will hopefully get used to it.

I will definitely check out our local ag and see what they can help me with any information.

 

[nachoqtpie]

Well, I have watched many youtube videos about how to process chickens, ducks, and rabbits. I also have a friend who processes her own chickens that has offered to come teach me. My husband has done it before, but it was when he was rather young.

I don't know that either of my kids has the stomach for processing, but I think they will be okay with it as long as they don't have to participate... at least at first.

Our Pastor was talking about 1st fruits at church a couple Sundays ago, and this past Sunday I asked him about how he would like his chicken. He asked what I was talking about and I told him that since we really didn't make much money, that our eggs and animals would have to be our first fruit offerings, and he said "I really don't want a live animal." As he gave me a look like I'd just shot his dog. I laughed and sad I was going to bring him a dozen duck eggs and he looked at me funny again and I told him that he and his wife would like them because they are so creamy. It was like I'd just walked off the mother ship! Lol

When we left I leaned over and said "I knew he was a city boy!"

I guess that means my kids are city kids, eh?

 

[hoodat]

If at all possible keep your rabbit cages out of the sun. Rabbits can handle a lot of cold but heat really bothers them. Be sure the cages have some sort of roof. Wet rabbits get sick easily. A wooden shelter box fastened to one end of the cage is a good idea. They are more comfortable if they have a place to hide when they feel threatened. It doesn't have to be anything fancy. Just cobble one up from whatever used lumber or scraps you have around. Removable floor boards make periodic cleang easier. I've found that most does will not potty in a shelter box but bucks will. Young rabbits potty wherever the urge hits. Older rabbits will choose a potty corner and go there when they need to. Your shelter box can also double as a nesting box when your does have their litters.
All you really need for food is a good quality 16% rabbit pellet, unless you are showing, then you may want to go to an 18%. I don't use pellets at all except as emergency food. My rabbits stay healthy on a diet of gathered greens and some grain for protein. Rabbits in Europe are almost always raised that way and the best thing is if you can gather greens wild you are getting free food. Equal parts of barley, wheat and oats makes a good grain supplement.
For cages I like the all wire cages. They are easily made without a lot of experience. Wood is subject to rot and rabbits like to chew it. Actually some wood fiber is good to keep their teeth worn down and things moving through the gut. You can always put a block of pine or fir wood in the cage for them to chew on and play with. Rabbits like playtoys.
Any rabbit can be eaten but in some the bone to meat ratio is too high. You can't eat the bones. If your primary reason for having them is meat there are several breeds that come to mind. New Zealand whites are the top commercial breed. They are easy to handle, have good sized litters and usually make good mamas. If you don't need big rabbits you can use Californian which are essentially a slightly smaller New Zealand. I prefer Rex myself because the meat on the loin (the back) is quite thick. They were originally bred for meat but their fur is so soft (like vevet) and their disposition so sweet that they also make great pets.
The best, and cheapest way to start is with meat mutts. Mixed breeds tend to be quite healthy and are easy to raise plus being a lot cheaper to buy. You can often find them for $10 to $20 on Craigslist. After you gain more experience you can get into pure breds. The advantage to them is that you get a lot more for them when you sell them, especially if the parents have done well in shows.
The rabbit board I like best is Rabbit Talk. We have plenty of knowledge there and you don't need to worry about getting flamed. The folks there are very helpful and don't mind beginners questions. Spammers and rude posters get dumped quickly. We have everything from those who keep a pet rabbit in the house to those who raise for meat. All are welcome
http://rabbittalk.com/