Those of you who have more or less traditional gardens, do you run the rows north and south, or east and west, or somewhere in between? Mine have been running north to south, but there may be a good reason to change it.
I have both. I remember this question being asked a while back and I think the consensus was that it didn't make much difference as long as you plant the taller varieties so they don't shade the plants adjacent.
Maybe it makes more difference depending on your latitude.
There are a lot of variables in this question. A major one is whether it is a garden situation or if it is a farm situation. A farm situation will likely have fewer types of crops with a larger spread of each crop, interplanted or not.
A garden situation will likely have a lot of different kinds of crops in a usually smaller space.
The garden situation for many will be trying to make sure the tall crops generally do not shade the low growing crops. So rows or beds running generally east/west makes generally good sense. This way the rows on the north part of the garden can be planted with the taller plants which would then not shade lower growing plants on the southern beds.
Some crops don't mind some shade, and some crops are removed in midsummer. So it can get to be a complex issue, but one that does not need to be a big worry. Even if the beds run north to south tall things can simply be on the north parts of the beds.
Then there is simplicity. If it is much easier to do it one way or the other, for a garden situation, such as building the garden, or for watering the garden, or what not, do what seems simplest. For the light situation, minor problems can be overcome.
Light is a paramount importance in my garden. It is in a small forest clearing. Tall trees all around.
The main part of my garden, and the front extension, have beds that run east to west. The back extension has 2 beds that run north to south. Since the back of my garden is on the sunrise side, east, and receives afternoon shade more or less the further from summer solstice it is, that is where I plant things like Peas and Round Red Turnips that enjoy cooler weather and tolerate a bit less light. It is also where I planted my Tobacco which is now rising in growth since I finished with the Peas that shaded them by overgrowing earlier in the season. Oh they are looking good now!
But then, since one of the purposes of my garden is beauty, I have taller growing Amaranths planted here and there throughout my garden. Since the days get noticeably shorter much faster because of the tall trees to the south, I am harvesting the Amaranths to allow more light in to make up for it. That'll work for awhile. By sometime in November my garden will begin receiving virtually, then actually, no direct sunlight on it. No caress of the sun. All is still not lost though! My Huechera and some other shade loving beauties will be in there, the Winter Radishes and Turnips, Tyfon Greens, Michihili Cabbage, and maybe some other things, will be there while I remodel my garden for next year!
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Other reasons to decide directions for the beds can be contour or lay of the land, erosion control, and then there is one...
Simply for the design of it. I really enjoy the radial symetry of, is it Nachoqtpie's garden? Can't rightly remember offhand who's, but that garden seems to sprout outward from the garden shed. I like it!~
Others are circles and shapes. Actually, some of my beds are not made arrow straight simply because of the way I use the logs. Getting them to be structually sound without sinking the posts, a thing I discovered, is that 180 degrees is a weaker nailed joint than something like 140 degrees. A post not sunken holds firm well nailed, even with my fluff compost in the bed 2 or 3 foot deep.
Can't add much to MMs great answer. I'll give you another thumbs up.
Generally, north to south allows for less shade from other plants, but research has shown no significant difference between n-s and e-w rows. Better to use what works best for your land and not worry about which ways your rows go.
It is possible, if you are making raised beds especially, to put the beds in perpindicular to the natural direction of drainage flow. My garden is right next to a ravine. It is also in a national forest which means inspections from multiple departments. What I did was, as I was making the main part of my garden, and also then while making the front extension, I created "underground seeps", a total of three of them. While doing the main digging and grading, I first made small trenches that led to the ravine to the north. then I covered those trenches with old 2x10 wood and set wood chips in, around, and under them. Then I laid the netting for gopher slowing, and then I placed a layer of half burned leaves and ash over the whole thing. The seeps do work. Last year a Brown Squirrel decided to nest in one of them. Luckily she did not dig her way up into my garden.
The underground seeps slow the water flow and reduce the possibility of erosion. So far the inspectors like the idea. It imitates how water naturally flows in our hills here. I feel it is also a respect to spirit groundwater.