Questions on My Multi-graft Pear Tree

ninnymary

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Did I plant this pear tree deep enough? There is a knot above the soil and then the trunk grows from there. I wasn't sure if this knot should be above the soil line or below.
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This tree was planted last year and is about 6' tall. I am debating wheter to keep it or not. The problem is that I believe 3 of the 4 pears will not produce very well in my area. The branch to the right is a Kieffer which has about 24 small pears. Kieffer is recommended for my area. Blake has only 1, Warren has 4 and other blossoms which are either male flowers or didn't get pollinated, and Harrows has 5 pears. My dilemma is wheter or not to take this tree out and replace it with only a kieffer. I bought this tree for $7 and couldn't pass it up. At the time I figured if only the Kieffer produced that it was worth it.

Your thoughts?

Mary
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Ridgerunner

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I'm not going to get to deep into whether you should keep it or get another. I know your space is tight so that is a pretty important decision for you. I haven't tried this but what do others think about pruning out the types you don't want this winter when it goes dormant? If it is making pears you are way ahead of my pear trees. I'd hate for you to start over and have to wait for years to get a pear.

I'd be tempted to keep at least one other variety so you get some cross pollination. Kiefer are supposed to be self-pollinating but most self-pollinating fruit trees do better if another variety is available for cross-pollination. If you noticed which ones bloomed at the same time as the Kiefer, I'd keep that one even if it didn't produce really well.= just for the pollen.


That knot should be the graft. I don't know how they do those multi-variety grafted trees. I'd guess that the main trunk is one of the varieties you are buying grafted to the rootstock then the others are grafted to that. That graft needs to be above the soil line. Otherwise the tree can send out roots from that and you lose the benefits of the rootstock. That looks good to me.

Remember to remove any sprouts that come out below that graft. That's the rootstock and probably not something you want.

Just so you know, I'm jealous. I planted a couple of ear trees in 2008. I've seen a few blooms but no pears have set on.
 

ninnymary

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Ridge, I always buy fruit trees in 15 gal. containers from the nurseries. The trees always have some fruit on them which is nice. I'm guessing they are 3 yrs. old at the time?

Since this is really the second year of producing fruit I figured the total pears on it is close to 35. I guessing that is pretty good. I guess I really don't need a whole lot of pears. They will be for fresh eating. But I'm thinking about the future wheter I would ever want to can pears.

Mary
 

ninnymary

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Cat, I did prune it a little last fall. It's 6' tall and that's the height that I want. Do you mean I should prune it down to around 4-5'? How do you suggest I prune it?

The Dave Wilson site recommends prunning in the summer to control small trees. So I can do it then.

Mary
 

baymule

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I was given pears last year and I peeled, cored and simmered them until soft. Then I pureed them with a can of frozen Welches grape juice and made fruit roll ups in the dehydrator. They were soooooo good! :drool I was given more pears twice and I canned them in a light syrup with fresh squeezed lemon juice. Delicious! I have a pear tree in the yard that has been mixed up and bloomed in the fall the last 2 years. :he It has blooms on it now and I hope they make fruit-just one and I would be excited!

Your tree is beautiful! I sure wouldn't take it out!
 

catjac1975

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Cat, I did prune it a little last fall. It's 6' tall and that's the height that I want. Do you mean I should prune it down to around 4-5'? How do you suggest I prune it?

The Dave Wilson site recommends prunning in the summer to control small trees. So I can do it then.

Mary
It is not the height that you prune necessarily. You have too many tiny branches. I am guessing that is is a dwarf that you want to keep potted? Am I correct? Each of the varieties should have one main branch that will grow large and strong over time. Another thought I had is if you think the other varieties will not perform for you, you can reduce the branches and only keep what you want. This needs to be done in dormancy and slowly so as not to stress the tree. You can cut broken or damaged branches at any time, but reduce no more than 1/3 of the branches in any one season. I will look for an illustration.
 

catjac1975

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http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/vegetables/tree_fruits_nuts/hgic1351.html
I think this looks good. This being said my trees are not well pruned. They are way over grown. I just do not have time to do all that I do and the trees fall by the wayside. I get good peaches, but my pears need spraying. I have not found a good organic program that I can keep up with. But, nothing like a tree ripened peach-like when we were kids. The few pears I end up with are delicious. What out for squirrels they will strip a tree while your on a short trip to the store.
 
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