Tools for Apple Tree pruning

[bernie5711]

I know I have to acquire some pruning tools for beginning the Process of pruning the apple trees came March, but not sure what I need. One of the videos I watched on pruning said to use a certain type of pruning shears as they cut closer to the trunk, or something like that? Can anyone make some recommendations as to what I need like type, make, model, where to buy, etc. of hand shears, loppers, etc?

Thanks
Bernie

 

[catjac1975]

Black & Decker LP1000 Alligator Lopper 4.5 Amp Electric Chain Saw
I just bought this last year-it comes in rechargeable form too.
If you have a lot of pruning from trees that have gotten away from you this is a godsend. After a day of hand ratchet pruning every joint in my arms, shoulders, and hands were on fire. This give a pretty clean cut and I now use it on everything. I didn't get the battery operated because I thought it would be heavier-sometimes I wish I had.

 

[Smart Red]

I have a B&D electric tree saw that allows me to reach some higher big branches. I have an extension pruning saw that probably works the best and on the most branches. It also has a lopping function where a string is pulled once the lopper is in place, but I've never gotten used to it.

I also have some long loppers - for good leverage - that have a bypass lop rather than an anvil cutting surface. This is the one needed to keep your pruning short and close to the tree. Finally, I have several land pruners for those small water sprouts. I often just walk through the orchard and rub the new growth off before it gets a good start.

One note. Often, pruning one twig will set the spot up for two more to grow. Often,after I cut the twig, I will use my jackknife to carve the growing node a bit deeper and prevent regrowth. I seldom use a pruning paint unless the cut is very large.

Remember to cut large branches takes an extra step. First, make your first cut on larger branches up from the bottom. Then cut further than your under cut. Once the branch is off, you can trim your pruned branch back close to the tree. Larger branches have a habit of tearing the bark when they are cut. This prevents more damage to the tree.

Good luck!

 

[ducks4you]

I was just searching on this. Came across this site:
http://www.family-gardens.com/fruit-tree-pruning-instructions.html
I have a chainsaw, a reciprocating saw, and a hand pruner, plus a lopper and hand pruners. I really like that they suggested to attack a severely overgrown apple and prune 75% of it, but do it over a 3-year period.
"It can be quite the job to rejuvenate and bring an old fruit tree back into good production and easy picking. But it is worth it. You will have to do some radical pruning especially if the only recent pruning was done by bears. Don't try to do it all in one year, it will be too much for the tree and probably you too. "

 

[897tgigvib]

The old school method includes the following tools:

Felco cross cut pruning shears...These cut with the similar action of a pair of scissors but with more close in force and strength. The anvil-blade type are NOT recommended for apple trees.

ALWAYS REMEMBER APPLE TREES ARE BARK SENSITIVE, more than most other trees. Careful you don't damage an apple tree's bark.

Several sizes of step ladders.

Having 2 sturdy 8 foot step ladders along with a reliable assistant, a sturdy 2 by 12 plank can be put onto the first 2 or 3 steps for a scaffolding. It should not be more than 8 feet long, and only if you are in firm condition.

A good standard and sharp pair of lopping shears for reaching

A 12 inch or so pruning saw

These days a lot of folks prefer to dip their cutting tool into alcohol after each cut. If you feel there is any disease around do that. If you feel you are clean of disease, just do it after each ladder shift.

Old school method like this is a not in a big hurry method. You have all winter. It does help to have an assistant, like i was when i was a kid!

The assistant picks up the cuts, sturdies the ladders, hands the shears back up if they fall, drives the tractor forward, and can take over a bit while you rest and teach. Decades later the assistant will teach and give thanks to you.

Thank you Frank Distefano up in heaven for teaching me how to prune trees

 

[thistlebloom]

Pretty much what the others said. I would add that for tight spaces I use a super sharp Corona folding saw with a shortish blade - 8ish inches. Using a chainsaw you have to be veeerrry careful to not hit a branch you're not intending to prune. Same with a reciprocating saw
although it has a shorter blade. So that, my hand pruners and loppers are all I use. Oh, and a ladder is good too .

Reds description on cutting a branch so you don't end up with the branch falling and tearing bark is spot on. I like Marshalls description of
it being a "not in a hurry method". It's pleasant work, and good to go slow and study where you propose to make each cut beforehand.

Oh yeah, another thing I do a little differently is to carry a small squirt bottle of alcohol ( the rubbing type ) to spray my blade if it's necessary.