Anybody with advice on vegetation killer?

Smart Red

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:frow Here! :frow Here I am! :frow I'm the one who paints Glysophate on individual weeds. I use only Glysophate, not a garden store product that contains Glysophate plus other herbicides. The Glysophate takes several weeks to kill all the plant growth. I can wait. Replanting can be done a day after spraying if wanted.

Hey, I like the bottomless bucket idea. Should work better than covering the good plants.
 

ducks4you

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THANKS for all the responses! I need to get a handle on burdock,and then thistles and few others, but mostly the burdock that I have to comb out of my horse's manes and tails. Since it's a two year crop I want to try to eliminate as many 2015 burrs bc I can dig out and till 2015 spouts.
 

jasonvivier

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I need to clear the 4' wide bed next to my house. I've been fighting weeds there and I've pruned the yews so much that I killed 5 of them--NO loss to ME--but I'm tired of fighting every year. I understand that vegetation killer clears every plant that is sprayed for about one year and some plants need a second spraying. I'd like to keep the existing yews, the hydrangea in the corner, and the plantings on the north and south of my front walk, but kill off everything else that has been growing around the east and south of the house. Any comments and advice and experience in welcome. :D

Cardboard and straw (or other mulch) will kill any weed you have. There is no need to use sprays.

Throw regular brown cardboard on the ground where you want to kill a weed or till grass. Cover with straw or other mulch, take nap - because you are done, say goodbye to weeding for a few years.

When you want to plant you poke a hole into the cardboard and plant your plant. Chances are you will also water about 30% less and have fewer soil larvae.
 
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majorcatfish

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quack grass is the state weed here in nc , wheat straw works ok but you have deal with missed wheat spouting plus all the other weeds that thrived among the wheat straw. a little round up when applied with common sense works wonders in a larger garden. also once the garden is done for the season a good old fashion propane weed torch is a plus. but thats my 2 cents worth...
 

thistlebloom

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That cardboard and mulch will work on many weeds, but not all. Definitely not bermuda grass which used to be the bane of my garden life. I had to move far, far away from that mess. :D
 

bobm

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Cardboard and straw (or other mulch) will kill any weed you have. There is no need to use sprays.

Throw regular brown cardboard on the ground where you want to kill a weed or till grass. Cover with straw or other mulch, take nap - because you are done, say goodbye to weeding for a few years.

When you want to plant you poke a hole into the cardboard and plant your plant. Chances are you will also water about 30% less and have fewer soil larvae.
When one runs across some weeds such as Johnson grass, Crab grass, Fox tail, Jensen weed, Puncture vine ( an invasive from Australia), Tumble weed, Star thistle, Mustard, Stinging nettle, Horse tail, etc. ... PLEASE let me know how the cardboard and straw work out as I have been fighting these as well as other weeds for years. :caf
 
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jasonvivier

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When one runs across some weeds such as Johnson grass, Crab grass, Fox tail, Jensen weed, Puncture vine ( an invasive from Australia), Tumble weed, Star thistle, Mustard, Stinging nettle, Horse tail, etc. ... PLEASE let me know how the cardboard and straw work out as I have been fighting these as well as other weeds for years. :caf

I've downed bitter nightshade, stinging nettle, mustard is easy, crab grass is easy and many other plants.

The basic idea is this, can the plant go two years without sunlight? The cardboard prevents photosynthesis for about that long which kills the plant. With bitter nightshade, I cut it to the ground, cover it with cardboard, then mulch, wet it all down and never see it again.

This doesn't work for everything but it should be sufficient for the home gardener.

Humorously enough this method was pioneered in Australia. Look into the work of David Holmgren and Bill Mollison.
 

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