Care of wooden handles

[blurose]

As most everybody else probably does, I have wooden-handled garden tools. They are looking pretty "rough" due to weather exposure these days, although the tools aren't but a couple of years old (except my treasured 40-year-old pruners). I had heard somewhere that I could sand the peeling varnish off of them and coat them with mineral oil and that this would better "preserve" the wood handles. Has anybody done this before? If so, are the handles "greasy" and hard to hang onto afterwards? Also, I have a wire-brush attachment to my cordless drill. Would this be alright to use to "scrub" some rust off the metal parts of my tools?

 

[Tutter]

Yes, the brush attachment would be okay.

The handles can be sanded with sand paper. Did they mean linseed oil, I wonder? That's the best choice, I think.

Waxing works, too, and doesn't make them hard to handle. Beeswax. Heat it in a double boiler to soften, not melt, it, then put it into your hand, mold into a semi-circle to go around the handle, and run it up and down the handles.

Run a rag over afterwards to get off excess and work it in. Let dry.

With RA you'd find it difficult, perhaps. Is there someone who can do that part for you?

It's a good idea to help out the wood.

 

[manfre]

Advise given to me by my brother (a pro landscaper), "don't buy the cheapest tools because the $5-10 you'll save is not worth it in the long run." With that tidbit of knowledge, all of the wooden handled ones at Lowes were cheap looking and made in china. I passed over those and bought either fiberglass or aluminum handled tools made in America. (I happily pay a little bit more to support the local economy)

So far, no splinters and no complaints. I just have to remember not to try and use the shovel as a pry bar because it's not cost effective to replace the handle if it were to bend.

 

[blurose]

Tutter, I thought Linseed Oil myself when I was told mineral oil. I already have linseed oil for my saddle, but went ahead and bought the mineral oil at the pharmacy just in case. It would make more sense to me to use the linseed oil on the wood and the mineral oil on the metal parts, if the metal isn't enameled that is.

Manfre, that is really good advice. Unfortunately, they don't make my "specialty" tools with fiberglass or aluminum handles. I am disabled with rheumatoid arthritis and need short-handled, child-sized garden tools. I use these while sitting on a handicapped shower bench in my garden. Its either that or give up gardening altogether, which I am refusing to do. I know my kids wish I'd quit gardening because they end up having to do more of the "heavy" work.

 

[CityChook]

I know this is an old post, but thought I'd add my $.02 --

Mineral Oil for the metal parts, Linseed oil for the wooden handles. I oil everything up (teak patio furniture, my huge cedar arbor, hand tools, even the chicken coop) with a 50/50 mix of linseed oil and mineral spirits every spring. The spirits helps the oil penetrate into the wood. Apply it liberally with a disposable paint brush, let it soak in for 15 minutes or so and then wipe down the surface of anything that didn't absorb with a cloth rag. Let it sit for a day or so. Done. I've been doing this for years. Make sure you wipe the excess away, though, because if you leave it and it dries, it'll be sticky. Not the end of the world, but avoidable.

Surfaces will not be greasy when you are done. The linseed soaks into the wood and provides a nice water barrier to keep wood from cracking.

I like to winter store my good tools in a pot with sand and motor oil.

To me, the smell of linseed oil is the smell of spring!

 

[durga]

Thanx for your input. I appreciate it

 

[hoodat]

If your handle fits into a socket as in most hoes and rakes be sure to let the oil soak down into that. That's where most rotting takes place.

 

[lighthawk]

This thread is the closest to answering a question I have. Forgive me if it seems as if I am hijacking it.
My old rolling pin finally gave up the ghost with a large crack the length of it. I replaced it with a new hardwood pin (appears to be hickory) and I am concerned about preserving it.
Linseed oil seems to be the preferred treatment for tool handles. Does anyone know if it would be safe to use it in this application?

 

[vfem]

This thread is the closest to answering a question I have. Forgive me if it seems as if I am hijacking it.
My old rolling pin finally gave up the ghost with a large crack the length of it. I replaced it with a new hardwood pin (appears to be hickory) and I am concerned about preserving it.
Linseed oil seems to be the preferred treatment for tool handles. Does anyone know if it would be safe to use it in this application?

For cutting boards and rolling pins, since I use them on food I preserve then by rubbing extra virgin olive oil on them. I do this as much as 2-3 times a year. It is recommended to do once a year... but I seriously use them so much I can see when the oil is worn off. Just rub and set inside a warm oven at proof temp (80-85 degrees) crack the door on the oven, and give it 15 minutes or so.

I prefer this over linseed for food prep items. I have teak wooden spoons I do this to also... just less often.

 

[lighthawk]

VFem... Thank you very much. I will do that today.