Droopy/Wilting Pear Tree Tops - Any Ideas Why?

[ranchhand]

This is a cheapo pear tree, and has done very well- until it was planted last Sunday! It is tagged as a "Pear Bartlett YL DWF". A dwarf Bartlett. It is about 6' tall.

Since it went into the ground, the green, new stem parts have drooped, no matter how much water we pour on it. The brown, older "trunk" parts seem to be fine. Temps are 80 degrees during the day, 50-60 at night, and the soil is pretty sandy for 6 inches, with "dirt" dirt underneath.

The whole tree:

The new growth at the top:

I am debating cutting the new growth off, or should I hard prune first year, or just leave it be?

Thanks!

 

[Catalina]

Hi there!
I'm by no means a tree expert, but I googled "drooping newly planted fruit tree" http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=newly+planted+fruit+trees+drooping

Looks like it might just be responding to the stress of planting and the heat. Just keep watering it!

 

[vfem]

Isn't that a decrotive pear... none-fruit producing?! Well, thats what it looks like to me.

Anyways... its in shock by the looks of it.... a good deep watering should help, and mulch.

 

[ranchhand]

Thanks for the replies- I think the Bartlett is a fruit producer, and the Bradford is the ornamental. Haven't checked it yet, been busy trying to hatch chicks!

I gave it a deep watering yesterday, Sunday, and it looks even droopier. So maybe, it's a case of too much water! If it doesn't perk up soon, I am going to top it - then it will REALLY be a dwarf tree!

 

[Hattie the Hen]

Hi there!

Your pear tree does look sad ! When ever I plant trees in Spring or Summer I always add a piece of pipe to the planting hole -- it has to go down as far as the root depth & have a diameter larger than that of your hose. I then put in the tree stake & fill in the hole with plenty of compost mixed into the soil. You can then poke your water hose into the pipe & get the water down to root level quickly --- otherwise the top level of soil wicks the water away & the roots never get the benefit. I have, in the past, successfully moved large trees using this method ; even in high summer.

By the way, did you water the empty hole before you put the tree in? A lot of people leave this precaution out but I always fill the entire hole up with water, then let that drain away into the lower soil before putting anything in. That way you are absolutely sure the tree has moisture at the right depth!

You will need to water (down the pipe) at least twice a day in the heat of summer. If it is extra hot, more often or leave the hose poked into the pipe & turn the tap down to a dribble all day. Otherwise you will lose the tree.

The best time to plant trees is in late summer/ early fall, in my opinion

I hope it recovers

Happy Gardening :happy_flower

:rose Hattie :rose

 

[ranchhand]

Hi there!

Your pear tree does look sad ! When ever I plant trees in Spring or Summer I always add a piece of pipe to the planting hole -- it has to go down as far as the root depth & have a diameter larger than that of your hose. I then put in the tree stake & fill in the hole with plenty of compost mixed into the soil. You can then poke your water hose into the pipe & get the water down to root level quickly --- otherwise the top level of soil wicks the water away & the roots never get the benefit. I have, in the past, successfully moved large trees using this method ; even in high summer.

By the way, did you water the empty hole before you put the tree in? A lot of people leave this precaution out but I always fill the entire hole up with water, then let that drain away into the lower soil before putting anything in. That way you are absolutely sure the tree has moisture at the right depth!

You will need to water (down the pipe) at least twice a day in the heat of summer. If it is extra hot, more often or leave the hose poked into the pipe & turn the tap down to a dribble all day. Otherwise you will lose the tree.

The best time to plant trees is in late summer/ early fall, in my opinion

I hope it recovers

Happy Gardening :happy_flower

:rose Hattie :rose

Well, two weeks later and it is still droopy! Looks exactly the same.

Hattie, all good advice, but I wasn't the one to plant it, and I can guarantee it was "dig the hole, stick it in, put the dirt back and water the heck out of it". I have seen DH in action!

I have since learned that he didn't remove the bag around the roots! He said the package said do not remove the burlap- I pointed out that burlap is one thing, and this is artificial material. He countered with, it doesn't matter, the bottom was all rotted out anyway.

So my thinking is that it needs to be dug out, have the hole better prepared, remove the stinkin' bag and replant properly. And I even have some PVC I can slip in there!

I agree about time of year- but these are only sold out here in the spring.

Thanks! :rose

edited for my horrid typing!

 

[Hattie the Hen]

Hi ranchhand,

Hmm!---Men.......!!! SORRY about your poor pear!

YES! Dig it up & get it right. Pears are not the easiest or quickest to get to fruit. It definitely won't survive with a plastic overcoat on. Put the piping down to root level with lots of compost in there. When you dig it out & remove the plastic I would dump it into a bucket of water while you prepare the hole &put in the pvc piping& stake. Then put in the pear with plenty more compost & WATER LIKE MAD BOTH DOWN THE PIPE & AROUND THE TOP. :watering. Do this every day! :watering If you find it is still flopping & starts going crispy on the leaves you will have to cut it back.

In future you will know not to let DH plant things! Lesson learned!


:rose Hattie :rose

 

[patandchickens]

Yup, under the circumstances I think you'd be better off digging it up and replanting properly. Make sure to water the rootball well before replanting -- a bone-dry rootball sometimes *can't* rehydrate well enough from soil moisture.

Personally I'd leave most of that droopy despairing growth there, until some of it starts dying back (then prune off the dying parts -- they may well be the long top shoots) -- but I am not 100% sure this is the best option. My reasoning is that the root system and plant as a whole may be in sad shape and not grow back very well at this point. You probably WILL lose the sappy long topmost shoots, if not now then next winter.

Probably want to mulch a good-sized area around the trunk, too -- not right up against the trunk but 3-4" of mulch out to several feet away. It doesn't need the dirt over its roots drying up or heating up, and doesn't need competition from grass and weeds at this particular point in its life!

Good luck to you and the tree,

Pat

 

[insiderart]

It's possible that if the plastic was left on it's not able to wick up enough moisture from just the "rotted out" bottom. So it is in effect "in a pot" in the ground if that makes sense. And if he didn't unwrap the top then no water gets in except what can be wicked up from the bottom.

Or... indeed it could be droopy from overwatering, but you'd also be seeing a lot of yellowing of the leaves and leaf drop.

In any event it should perk up either after it hasn't been watered in a while or right after watering... if you aren't seeing any improvement I'd at least dig down and remove the plastic around the root ball. No need to completely disturb the whole tree again.