Fig tree leaves turning yellow, dying. What causes this?

[Chkn salad sandwhich]

Hello everyone!

I have a fig tree that has been acting strangely all year. The plant started creating figs at the same time as the leaves (March/April), which is highly unusual, because we don’t start seeing figs here until July/August. This plant always produces figs that are green when ripe (not purple or brown like normal figs) and I couldn’t seem to find what variety it is from online research. About a month ago, some of the Leaves on the plant started turning yellow, but I attributed it to lack of water. When I returned from two weeks of vacation, I noticed that a lot of the leaves had fallen off or died, but only in certain areas of the plant, and that the fruits were wrinkling up when still unripe. When I got a closer look today, I couldn’t find any obvious signs of bug infestation. I did notice that the yellowed leaves had black or white spots, and that the figs On the tree all seemed to be in various states of development, with some still thumbnail sized and others almost ripe. I added some photos as well. The tree is about 3-5 years old and I have never seen this before. Any help is appreciated!

 

[Dirtmechanic]

That reminds me of a root fungus, attacking the root below the failing branch. What is covering the crown? Has it been wet there?

Fig Diseases in North Carolina | NC State Extension Publications

This fruit disease information factsheet discusses several disease problems when growing figs in North Carolina.

content.ces.ncsu.edu

Some, like Corticum salmonicolor have a low entry point past which every dies but show up with fungi colors (salmon-pink) usually. I personally hunt phytophthora because it is an up and coming problem here, not widely reported yet. I would be interested to know more about your plant. The problem is edibility post treatment. Potassium Phosphites are systemic and organic but whether its a suitable fungicide for your particular need is not something I could tell you. It is used on crops. There are many topical treatments, but once infected the plant dies once the fungi gain entry.

 

[Chkn salad sandwhich]

That reminds me of a root fungus, attacking the root below the failing branch. What is covering the crown? Has it been wet there?

Fig Diseases in North Carolina | NC State Extension Publications

This fruit disease information factsheet discusses several disease problems when growing figs in North Carolina.

content.ces.ncsu.edu

Some, like Corticum salmonicolor have a low entry point past which every dies but show up with fungi colors (salmon-pink) usually. I personally hunt phytophthora because it is an up and coming problem here, not widely reported yet. I would be interested to know more about your plant. The problem is edibility post treatment. Potassium Phosphites are systemic and organic but whether its a suitable fungicide for your particular need is not something I could tell you. It is used on crops. There are many topical treatments, but once infected the plant dies once the fungi gain entry.

Thanks for the info! It might be too late to save the plant anyway, but I would like to diagnose the problem so I could plant another fig variety In the same spot. It has been quite dry this year. What do you mean by the crown? I still need to read through the whole article.

edited to add: after reading the whole article, I don’t think it is nematodes since our soil is clay, not sandy. It’s not directly related to cold damage either since these issues only started showing in late May/early JUne. It sounds like it is probably a fungal infection (possibly introduced by cold damage) like you said. None of this seems to explain the really early fig production this year though. It was somewhat warm this winter (especially March), but not that unseasonably warm.

 

[Dirtmechanic]

Thanks for the info! It might be too late to save the plant anyway, but I would like to diagnose the problem so I could plant another fig variety In the same spot. It has been quite dry this year. What do you mean by the crown? I still need to read through the whole article.

edited to add: after reading the whole article, I don’t think it is nematodes since our soil is clay, not sandy. It’s not directly related to cold damage either since these issues only started showing in late May/early JUne. It sounds like it is probably a fungal infection (possibly introduced by cold damage) like you said. None of this seems to explain the really early fig production this year though. It was somewhat warm this winter (especially March), but not that unseasonably warm.

Actually it does. Fungal activity is virtually synonymous with reptile activity, or any other critter that needs heat to really get wiggly. Quick fixes are a betadine wash (povidone iodine) 2 tablespoons per gallon water, a topical killer that must touch the pathogen but it is cheap and safe..and non staining! The potassium salts of phosphonic acid are worth a shot, 2-6 oz per gallon water so I would use the lower amounts and be prepared to drench it and spray it as they are absorbed in a foliar fashion as well as by root pathways. The broad spectrum covered is worth a shotgun effort.

Check this fungal list out:

AGRI·FOS®
SYSTEMIC FUNGICIDE
SYSTEMIC FUNGICIDE FOR THE EFFECTIVE CONTROL OF VARIOUS PLANT DISEASES
INCLUDING BLACK SPOT OR SCAB IN APPLE, ROOT ROT IN AVOCADO, BUD ROT AND
NUT FALL IN COCONUT, ROOT ROT IN CITRUS AND CUCURBITS, DOWNY MILDEW IN
CUCURBITS, GRAPE, LETTUCE, AND ONION, ANTHRACNOSE IN MANGO, ROOT AND
HEART ROT IN PINEAPPLE, LATE BLIGHT IN POTATO, ROOT AND COLLAR ROT IN
STONEFRUIT, LEATHER ROT AND PHYTOPHTHORA DISEASES IN STRAWBERRY, LATE
BLIGHT IN TOMATO, DOWNY MILDEW, PHYTOPHTHORA & PYTHIUM IN ORNAMENTALS &
BEDDING PLANTS, PHYTOPHTHORA IN CONIFERS, PYTHIUM IN TURF, AND
PHYTOPHTHORA AND PYTHIUM DISEASES ASSOCIATED WITH STEM AND CANKER
BLIGHT (SUDDEN OAK DEATH) AND GENERAL BEECH DECLINE.
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Mono- and di-potassium salts of Phosphorous Acid*
It does not list fusarium which is another of my hated enemies but as I recall it hurts it too.

You can have it grown out and take tissue samples etc but you wont hurt it by trying.

Only thing is it is a slow process, and results will not really be known until next season, when you will be treating it again because those fungi make spores that get everywhere and they are hard to get at in the soil. Soil injection is a reasonable thing to do here. You wont be able to try tricks like the biological warfare trichoderma can help you with however, it is a chemical pathway. The chemical will kill a lot of types of fungi, and there can be some issues attracting biodome back to soften the clay.

That root seems buried under some compost or something. It cannot protect itself from the subsoil conditions when covered and the rot will destroy the vessels feeding the branches and everything above starved and dies. Pull it back and check the transition between root and bark is healthy and firm. Loose bark is death.

 

[Chkn salad sandwhich]

Actually it does. Fungal activity is virtually synonymous with reptile activity, or any other critter that needs heat to really get wiggly. Quick fixes are a betadine wash (povidone iodine) 2 tablespoons per gallon water, a topical killer that must touch the pathogen but it is cheap and safe..and non staining! The potassium salts of phosphonic acid are worth a shot, 2-6 oz per gallon water so I would use the lower amounts and be prepared to drench it and spray it as they are absorbed in a foliar fashion as well as by root pathways. The broad spectrum covered is worth a shotgun effort.

Check this fungal list out:

AGRI·FOS®
SYSTEMIC FUNGICIDE
SYSTEMIC FUNGICIDE FOR THE EFFECTIVE CONTROL OF VARIOUS PLANT DISEASES
INCLUDING BLACK SPOT OR SCAB IN APPLE, ROOT ROT IN AVOCADO, BUD ROT AND
NUT FALL IN COCONUT, ROOT ROT IN CITRUS AND CUCURBITS, DOWNY MILDEW IN
CUCURBITS, GRAPE, LETTUCE, AND ONION, ANTHRACNOSE IN MANGO, ROOT AND
HEART ROT IN PINEAPPLE, LATE BLIGHT IN POTATO, ROOT AND COLLAR ROT IN
STONEFRUIT, LEATHER ROT AND PHYTOPHTHORA DISEASES IN STRAWBERRY, LATE
BLIGHT IN TOMATO, DOWNY MILDEW, PHYTOPHTHORA & PYTHIUM IN ORNAMENTALS &
BEDDING PLANTS, PHYTOPHTHORA IN CONIFERS, PYTHIUM IN TURF, AND
PHYTOPHTHORA AND PYTHIUM DISEASES ASSOCIATED WITH STEM AND CANKER
BLIGHT (SUDDEN OAK DEATH) AND GENERAL BEECH DECLINE.
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Mono- and di-potassium salts of Phosphorous Acid*
It does not list fusarium which is another of my hated enemies but as I recall it hurts it too.

You can have it grown out and take tissue samples etc but you wont hurt it by trying.

Only thing is it is a slow process, and results will not really be known until next season, when you will be treating it again because those fungi make spores that get everywhere and they are hard to get at in the soil. Soil injection is a reasonable thing to do here. You wont be able to try tricks like the biological warfare trichoderma can help you with however, it is a chemical pathway. The chemical will kill a lot of types of fungi, and there can be some issues attracting biodome back to soften the clay.

That root seems buried under some compost or something. It cannot protect itself from the subsoil conditions when covered and the rot will destroy the vessels feeding the branches and everything above starved and dies. Pull it back and check the transition between root and bark is healthy and firm. Loose bark is death.

This is very useful, thank you. We do have mulch around the roots.