Germinating Seeds

[Durgan]

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?VMMSQ 30 May 2012 Germinating Seeds
Here is how I germinate all my seeds. The overall objective is to have high germination rates, and to have little or no root disturbance until planted in the final growing spot.
The reasoning behind this method is: The pots are of adequate size. The plastic bags keep the humidity high and they need no further water or care until germination. The bags are removed immediately upon the first sign of germination, and the pot placed in bright as possible SUNLIGHT. Most seeds only need moisture and the proper temperature to germinate. Most do not need any light. There are one or two exceptions. I have absolutely no confidence in any artificial light and consider them to be a waste. My germination rate approaches 100%.

 

[baymule]

This puts Toby Hicks song "I Love My Red Solo Cup" in a whole different light. Seriously, what a great idea! You really have a lot of garden knowledge and thanks for sharing with us. I will have to try this.

 

[momofdrew]

Durgan, I never thought to use coffee filters to prevent the soil from washing out of the holes at the bottom...Solo cups have so many great uses....

 

[MontyJ]

This method does work for germinating some seeds. However, it is extremely space consuming. I would also NOT recommend it for starting tomatoes. Tomatoes actually benefit from being potted up a few times. Each time they are potted up, the entire plant is buried to the true leaves, allowing the plant to grow even more roots. For cabbages and other coles, it works very well.

 

[ninnymary]

Durgan, I don't have any south facing windows that I could use. The only one where I could put a small table in front of, is stained glass. Actually, I don't have any windows where I could place them. What do you recommend?

Mary

 

[Durgan]

Durgan, I don't have any south facing windows that I could use. The only one where I could put a small table in front of, is stained glass. Actually, I don't have any windows where I could place them. What do you recommend?
Mary

Seeds don't need light to germinate. All that is required is moisture and an appropriate warm temperature which is a fairly wide range. However, immediately after sprouting the plants needs light primarily sunlight. This means means moving outdoors in the daytime and taking in at night when it turns cool.


http://www.durgan.org/URL/?ZWBJH 12 June 2012 Tomato Support System
A few more cords were added today to support fruit laden branches. The tomatoes are absolutely free growing with no obstructions.There are 32 plants.

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?OFIDJ 2 June 2012 Tomato Growth
Tomatoes are forming quite well. All plants have fruit in Zone 5 on the second of June. This is the earliest that I have had many healthy tomatoes at this time of the season. They is a bit of lower leaf curl on some plants but not considered important. There was adequate rain yesterday and much sunshine is forecast, so the plants are expected to continue to thrive.The plants are free growing with no suckers removed. Today is cool the temperature is 12C.

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?SQEVK 19 May 2012 Mulching Tomatoes
Over the last few years mulching has been practised with no adverse effects, and many benefits. My primary purpose is moisture retention to inhibit evaporation from the hot Sun. All my moisture comes from overhead, since I have no available ground water table. I seldom water and if deemed necessary use rainwater from my four 45 gallon collection barrels.Weed control is of little importance, since I have few weeds due to appropriate cultivation practices.This video mentioned by one poster sort of states all about the benefits of mulching. http://backtoedenfilm.com/index.html#movie

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?YGHIH 14 May 2012 Tomatoes Planted in Outdoor Garden
All my tomato plants were placed in the outdoor garden. Weather forecast for the immediate future signifies warm weather, with no immanent danger of frost. Thirty six plants were placed outdoors. Thirty two are in the main garden area and three small fruit red currant type along the deck, plus one Lemon Boy was separated for testing as to productivity. The cultivars were planted so the top of the plant was at ground level. The lower leaves were removed so not to touch the ground. Support is by ropes tied to an overhead structure. There were insufficient individual supports, do I jury rigged a rebar support structure. Each tomato is free with no support obstructions. No suckers will be removed and additional rope support will be added as deemed appropriate as the season progresses.

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?QNJSE 13 May 2012 Tomatoes Support and Planting.
Beautiful warm, sunny day, so it was decided to place five tomatoes plants in the outdoor garden. There are about thirty available, but the possibility of frost is always present for the next ten days. The plants are beginning to be stressed due to out-growing their pots.
Planting is exactly like they are in the pots, there is no attempt to plant deeper to the lower leaves, since the ground down deep is too cool, and I have reservations about the efficacy of planting deep. The lower leaves are removed so none touch the ground. Type planted is two Black Krim, one Big Beef and two Better Boy.
The support system is via ropes to an overhead structure. The structure is a mesh which is supported by half inch rebar.The tomato plant is tied via 3/16 clothesline rope which is soft and will not bite into the plants. Ropes are tied to the plant as required during the season. This system is practical in my case, since I have only about 35 tomato plants and have the time to administer.Few suckers will be removed during the season, and the plant is free growing with no obstacles.

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?SPCMA 3 May 2012 Tomato Growth
Tomato plants were placed out doors to harden off. Clement weather is forecast for the next few days. They cannot be planted out for about three more weeks due to the possibility of frost.They are a bit bigger than I would like, but should still thrive when placed in the outdoor garden.

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?YABGO 14 April 2012 Tomato Plants
All plants are thriving in the greenhouse. There are about 30 for the garden, and I have many extra, but there are so few gardeners that they are difficult to give away.

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?HEHER 31 March 2012 Tomato Growth
Tomatoes are placed into larger pots as they become large enough. All are growing well.

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?BLMTL 12 March 2012 Tomatoes Germination and Growth. The greenhouse has been cool so germination has been slow, but the plants are healthy and strong. At least one seed germinated in all containers.At this stage maximum light is beneficial.

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?PXSKR 13 February 2012 Tomato Seed Planting
Tomato seeds planted for placing outdoors about 24 May 2012. Pots are plastic cups with holes burned in the sides to make a small water reservoir and to supply drainage.A coffee filter was placed in each pot to prevent soil escaping from the drainage holes and the filter tends to make transplanting easier since it encompasses the soil somewhat. Three seeds were planted per pot.The pot was covered with a gusseted clear plastic bag, which keeps humidity high. The gusseted bag allows the pots to sit level on a flat surface. The bag will be opened as soon as the seedlings show growth.

Seeds chosen were Bonny Best(5), Celebrity(5), Big Beef(5), Better Boy(5), Black Krim (10) (Purple fruit), and a grape type called Red Currant (2). I will plant five Lemon Boy when the seeds are obtained. Total plants are 37. I avoid the heirlooms. My favourites are the black types which are essentially all the same. My opinion.

 

[so lucky]

One of the interesting things about gardening is that every good gardener has their own way of doing things. What doesn't work well at all for one of works beautifully of someone else.
Case in point: Durgan is a very capable gardener who absolutely does not believe in using artificial light to start garden plants. At the same time, I and many other gardeners have wonderful results with artificial lights. If you don't have sunny windows, and you don't have a heated green house, then you are pretty much going to have to use artificial light if you want to get an early start on the garden plants. Keep the tube flourescent lights very close to the plants, make sure the bulbs aren't too old, provide ventilation (a fan), and you'll do fine.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Here is an interesting link to North Carilina State that talks about seed germination requirements, including light requirements. I wish their list were more extensive but at least you can get an idea.

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/hil-8703.html

Different seeds have different requirements to germinate. Some need light, some need dark, some can work with either. Some need to be chilled or even frozen a certain amount of time. Some don't. Some need to be really warm soil while others can handle cooler conditions. Some need to age. Before you try to start any seeds, it's probably a good idea to do some research on what that specific seed actually needs.

 

[ninnymary]

I don't have a problem germinating seeds. My problem is that I don't have a sunny part inside my house to place the seeds once they germinate. I also don't want to nor have the space for artificial light.

Durgan, if I sprout the seeds indoors, won't it be too cold outside during the day for the young seedlings? Temperature will be around 58* during the day.

Mary

 

[Durgan]

I don't have a problem germinating seeds. My problem is that I don't have a sunny part inside my house to place the seeds once they germinate. I also don't want to nor have the space for artificial light.

Durgan, if I sprout the seeds indoors, won't it be too cold outside during the day for the young seedlings? Temperature will be around 58* during the day.

Mary

Fifty eight degrees F is a reasonable temperature. Also, in direct sunlight the surface of the pots will be much warmer. Protect from wind, which can lower temperatures severely. Even in my greenhouse the temperature is around 40 to 50 F during the night, when the outside temperature is around freezing. During the daytime the temperature rises to above 70F. I am also of the opinion that relatively low temperatures when the plants are small tends to make for stronger plants later on. I am always experimenting and modify as new inputs indicate a change is desirable. One has to adapt to their environment and economic means.