Lower leaves yellow on newly planted tomatoes

[MontyJ]

There are also several heirloom tomatoes that are resistant to EB. Manalucie, Old Brooks and Legend are some the ones I have actually grown. I'm not familiar with what the M stands for in VFM. I don't know if there is a disease code for EB or LB, but V is Verticillium Wilt and F is Fusarium Wilt. T is Tobacco Mosiac and N is Nematodes.

And to clarify something on nutrient lock-out. Lock-out occurs when soil conditions cause certain nutrients to be unavailable to the plant. There are many different possibilities. One very common lock-out happens when soil pH drops to a point where aluminum (Al) becomes soluble in ground water. Being a positive ion (cation) it then occupies exchange sites in the soil (CEC). When this happens there is less room for Calcium (Ca), another cation. The Ca is thus "locked out".

Mackay, if you fed fish, such as "Alaska Fish", it is highly unlikely that lock-out caused your problem. It just isn't strong enough to upset the balance of the soil. I use it myself, completely without worry.

Like I said, there are a lot of things that can cause lock-out; over-watering, drought, severely unbalanced soil nutrients...In reasonably balanced (not perfect, but not completely out of whack) properly watered soil, lock-out would be non-existent.

 

[Chickie'sMomaInNH]

i seem to notice the yellow leaves on the plants when they've been over watered from too much rain here. once we start getting into the dryer parts of the summer the plants tend to stay green and stop dropping their yellow leaves. i remember a few years ago when we had a similar summer of nearly 40 days and 40 nights of constant rain and that did cause issues with blight. but not all of my plants had issues with getting it and continued to green up once the excessive rain stopped and i was able to give them some fertilizer.