Moving rasberry vines

[ninnymary]

I planted some rasberries in January behind my perenial border and are against the fence. They are growing very slowly and are about 12 inches high. The problem is that my roses are shading them. Should I move them now or wait till the fall? I thought that they would grow faster and outgrow the roses but they haven't. I'm just afraid that being in the shade, they will not do well.

Any suggestions? (One is Heritage and the other Fall Gold.)

Mary

 

[Collector]

I think maybe it will take a season or so for them to establish themselves. we transplanted some berries 2 years ago ,Last year they didnt get very big at all but this spring they are growing like crazy. I might let them grow there for another season before moving them again, Unless you think they are just not going to do well there.

 

[897tgigvib]

Wellp, how much do you plan on cutting the roses back next winter? That might help you decide whether to move the raspberries or not. Also, will you be doing the complete "mowing down to the roots" on the raspberries, or do you plan on having them keep a central stalk to cut back to? Or, do you have a really awesome much better place for the raspberries?

I'd have to think a lot about it before moving them now. They would be able to if you dug the rootball right and give a primo transplanting, plus shading them for a few days after.

I still have 4 berries to put in, and looks like I will not have room but for one more, maybe. So I thought and thought. Finally decided I need some 5 gallon pots to grow them in until November or so. The north row of my garden is going to be all berries!

This is the Boysenberry I just put in.

 

[lesa]

You will be surprised how well they will grow in the shade. If you feel like being patient, I think you will see in a couple seasons, all is well. Raspberries and blackberries naturally grow along the edge of a wooded area. My raspberries that are somewhat shaded are doing better than the ones in full sun...

 

[897tgigvib]

I agree with Lesa. I don't think Roses by themselves can put too much shade on well grown Raspberries north of them.

Most Roses can be pruned down just a bit, plus I would central stalk those Raspberries. Once you get them going, there will be a new shoot working its way up a post, a one year old shoot, and a dying 2 year old shoot which you will prune off, followed by the same sequence the next year, and each year. This is the method that keeps Raspberries up and in the light. Your flowers will be on the new branches growing off the older canes, and from out of the ground.

Mmmm, Fall Gold!

3 of my berry plants I just bought had no labels on them! They looked different than the other ones too. That's why I bought them. In the hopes that one of them would be Fall Gold that they said they did have earlier.

Grow those Raspberries good and primo for vegetative growth this year, and stake them with a 2 by 4

 

[ninnymary]

OK, I will be patient and leave them alone this year. I prune my 2 roses back to about 18 inches in December. When the bed was bare it sure looked like I had a perfect sunny spot for the berries.

Marshall, I've read on how to prune the berries and it sure sounds complicated! Even your explanation sounds complicated also. I just hope I prune right when the time comes. I'm so worried about that and fear that I'll mess up.

Mary

 

[897tgigvib]

I got it even more complicated for me NinnyMary!

Each of my Berry plants is a completely different kind! Boysenberry, Tayberry, Loganberry(what they call them), Navajo Blackberry, Indian Summer Everbearing Raspberry, Wild Dewberry, Standard Sprawling Thornless Blackberry, and 3 unknowns all different looking...and I want others...

I'll try to keep the everbearers at the west end of the row. Simplify it like this:

EVERBEARERS MAKE FLOWERS UP ALONG NEW GROWTH ALMOST ONLY.

ALL THE REST, LIKE MOST ALL BLACKBERRIES, MAKE FLOWERS ON STEMS THAT HAVE LIVED ONE WINTER.

MOST BRAMBLE BRANCHES LIVE 2 YEARS, AND MAYBE HANG ON A 3RD YEAR.

EVERBEARERS ARE KIND OF LIKE DIE BACK PERENNIALS.

Yep, it can be complicated if you have a whole bunch of different kinds. Add to that, my wild Dewberry may be a variety that has separate male and female plants. I'm not sure if it is such a variety, and if it is, I don't know if it is male or female. Either is good. If it's male it'll help pollinate the others, even though their flowers have both parts on them.

 

[plainolebill]

Our everbearing rasberries bear fruit on the new canes in the fall and again the following summer after which they die off. We prune the dead tops out of the canes in the fall, then remove the dead canes altogether at the end of the cycle. My wife carried around one plant in a pot for years and planted it here years ago. We have a row about 20 feet long now and get enough fruit from that to eat all we can eat fresh and the grandchildren too. Then freeze enough berries to supply us through the winter. We get a good crop in the spring but the late summer on the new canes is the best.

Ninnymary, Raspberries are in the same family as roses, I don't know if that could be causing problems but it might be worth investigating. They also need fairly well drained soil. We have clay that's wet ~9 months of the year so we've put them in raised beds along a fence. They thrive.

Marshall that sounds like quite a collection of caneberries you have there. Raspberries are all the caneberries we grow due to limited space, we also have 6 blueberry bushes and a few alpine strawberries.

Happy gardening season.

 

[Ridgerunner]

I'd wait until they go dormat to see how they do there. You can move them during the growing season, but you take a real risk of losing them. To move then when they are dormant, all you have to do is take a piece of the root maybe 6" long and as big around as a pencil or bigger and plant that a couple of inches deep. You don't have to have canes attached and sticking up, but you can if you wish.

Heritage and Fall Gold are "everbearing". They produce a real good crop in the fall on this year's canes, but will also produce some more on those same canes early the following year. The crop on the second year's canes is not all that much. You may want to leave the canes to produce that, but a lot of people just mow the old canes down late winter/early spring while they are still dormant and just go for the fall harvest. It's a whole lot easier to prune them with a lawn mower than doing it cane by cane. Your's probably won't produce that much the first year since they are spending their energy getting roots established, but after they get established, they'll do better. Movign them woul set them back a year.

I had Heritage. That early harvest was not much, but it was real nice just to get a few to munch on, so I pruned cane by cane. But raspberries never did that well here. It's just too hot and dry for them in full sun. Mine may have done better in the shade. Mine died out in last year's drought and triple digit heat, although I did water them.

 

[ninnymary]

Ridgerunner, sorry about losing your berries. Was that heritage crop your first one? that didn't produce much. I sure hope mine produces alot! Because they are in a perenial bed, I can't mow them down. I will have to prune cane by cane. But that's ok. I will have to wait to see if they produce much on the second crop. If not, I may just prune in the fall and that would be alot easier. My mind is alittle more at ease now.

Mary