My butternut squash are rotting (pictures)

[Southern Gardener]

on the end. There is a black spon on the end and then the squash shrivels up. Would this be blossom end rot?

 

[wsmoak]

That would be the blossom end, but... you usually hear of BER in tomatoes and peppers, related to calcium uptake. Not sure I've heard of it in winter squash.

Is it happening on the vine, or in storage?

-Wendy

 

[Southern Gardener]

On the vine. My acorn squash is planted in the same area, but I'm not having problems with them. :/

 

[digitS']

I think fruit from every annual may have this problem. It just needs to be serious enuf that the fruit begins to rot that the term "blossom end rot" gets used. (There are also some fungal diseases that may be similar.)

Cucumbers, seem to have this problem but just kind of shrivel up as a response. It is usually summer squash where it is more obvious but, as Wendy says, tomatoes and peppers are the most common victims.

I guess it is kind of a moisture balance thing. Rapid growth, dry soil, inadequate supply of the necessary minerals - all may lead to blossom end rot. I notice it is more of a problem early. Then the plants seem to "get their feet under them" and handle the situation a little better.

Here is a New Mexico State horticulturalist (link) talking about how it can happen in a calcium-rich soil. Here is a University of Illinois horticulturalist (link) giving a whole host of reasons for BER but focusing on problems with calcium uptake.

I wouldn't have expected soil moisture deficiency in Louisiana, Joan. What about a little too much nitrogen and not enuf calcium? Maybe lime is needed . . .

Steve

 

[lesa]

Are they ripe? Could you cook them and freeze? Obviously, cutting the bad part off... Haven't seen this happen. Good luck!

 

[catjac1975]

I would us limestone to prevent blossom end rot. I don't know if you would need that in your climate.

 

[Southern Gardener]

Steve, no soil moisture deficiency here - we've had plenty of rain. I'm also thinking not enough calcium, but isn't it too late to amend the soil - what about a calcium foliar spray?

Lesa - they are not mature - the largest one is about 10" long.

 

[lesa]

Can we see a picture?

 

[digitS']

I wonder how one could slow fruit growth, allowing time for roots to catch up . . .

Anyway, on that U of I webpage (right at the bottom): " Foliar sprays can be used as a short-term measure but their absorption by the fruit is very poor. Calcium chloride can be used as a foliar spray only in tomatoes and should be sprayed when it is not too hot to avoid burning the leaves."

That caveat about the fruit, I've seen before. It may benefit later fruit development.

The BER in my garden gets ascribed to soil moisture problems but I've done better in recent years. The soil just allows water to drain too quickly. There was something I've read that was like "fastest-moving aquifer - 30' each day." If water is moving 30 feet in 24 hours through the aquifer, there's not too much holding it from moving down . . . not just sideways. Truly, it is gardening in gravel .

Steve

 

[catjac1975]

You could cut off the fruit and more should set.

I wonder how one could slow fruit growth, allowing time for roots to catch up . . .

Anyway, on that U of I webpage (right at the bottom): " Foliar sprays can be used as a short-term measure but their absorption by the fruit is very poor. Calcium chloride can be used as a foliar spray only in tomatoes and should be sprayed when it is not too hot to avoid burning the leaves."

That caveat about the fruit, I've seen before. It may benefit later fruit development.

The BER in my garden gets ascribed to soil moisture problems but I've done better in recent years. The soil just allows water to drain too quickly. There was something I've read that was like "fastest-moving aquifer - 30' each day." If water is moving 30 feet in 24 hours through the aquifer, there's not too much holding it from moving down . . . not just sideways. Truly, it is gardening in gravel .

Steve