Need help on material list

[SarahBui]

Hello, all,

Recently I've purchased DYI chicken coop plan with an included material list, but I'm not so sure if it's made according to the US standards and if I'll be able to find all materials in some shop in Houston where I live

Please check the pictures I've attached. Can anyone help me on this issue?

Thanks a lot in advance!

 

[digitS']

Is it the availability of 3" lumber that you question?

I don't know enough about board sizes to give you a definitive answer but, yes, I certainly don't know where I would be able to buy those.

The name of the roofing, some of the other material ... . It's as though these items are available elsewhere and the materials list was simply changed from metric to inches and feet.

Steve

 

[Ridgerunner]

Sarah, I also don't know where I'd find that 3" material. That sounds like a finished dimension. You probably know this but when they rough cut a 2x4 they actually cut it 2" x 4". But when they finish it, smooth it down, the final dimensions are 1-1/2" X 3-1/2". 3" X 3" is an unusual dimension, I haven't seen it when I buy wood.

I'd take the plans to a lumber yard and see what they say. You can try talking to a Home Depot or Lowe's but I don't think they would do you much good other than maybe point you to a lumber yard. And take the plans, it won't hurt for them to have all the information. Things like that 15' long 3x3 for the floor. I don't think you need it 15' long, you'll have to cut it anyway. What lengths do you really need?

I agree with Steve, those plans are translated from another language. "Hatching eggs case" is an interesting translation for what I think is "nest".

Good luck! Glad you dropped by.

 

[Smart Red]

Wondering why they're not using 2 x 2's or 2 x 4's for the rafters, studs, and etc. 3 x 3 is harder to find, more expensive to purchase, and adds unnecessary weight to the finished coop. Also, plywood for the floor should be thicker than 3/8 even if the finished coop is a movable one. 5/8 inch is the minimum I'd use if I were planning to walk on it. 3/8 isn't bad for the sidewalls but even if you don't get snow, 3/8 plywood isn't a good idea for the roof of a stationary coop.

Don't forget plenty of ventilation. A good coop allows for lots of air flow without letting drafts into the coop.

Welcome, welcome, welcome!

 

[Smart Red]

Self tapping screws? I've only used those for metal applications not for wood.

Okay, selftapping with rubber washer ... that's for corrigated metal (or plastic) roofing and a good thing -- although roofing shingles would be cheaper the metal will last much longer. Watch the placement of nailers on roof and side walls if using metal siding and roofing.

 

[Smart Red]

Wish I could see a picture of the plan drawings or finished coop.

 

[SarahBui]

As a result of the search on the network, I found a manufacturer's website where I found necessary beam sizes. So it's all the same standard sizes if they are on sale?

Another thing: I found Commercial softwood lumber dimension chart - nominal and actual sizes, where the dimensions from my material list are present.

So, where is the truth?

 

[digitS']

SarahBul,

"Nominal" means named. Because of drying, the "actual" is likely still to be approximate.

You may find a sawmill like that one in New Jersey that will cut lumber to most any size. However, custom cut material will add to your costs.

Steve

 

[Ridgerunner]

Sarah, that place is in New Jersey, not Houston, and they don't deliver that far. I did not see pine on their price list either though they did say they had pine. To me that looks like a place that sells wood for fine carpentry. They have some nice wood varieties and sizes you will not see in standard lumber yards or a big box store. A good carpenter could make works of art out of that wood, it's not like what you would use to frame a house.

I still suggest you go to an expert in Houston, someone that sells lumber in that area, and chat with them. See what they say about it. There may be someone local to you that sells those dimensions. In a place the size of Houston there should be.

You can't go changing the dimensions of the wood you use as that would affect how things fit together. There is a lot of careful work that goes into that cutting list. If they call for a 3x3 I'd assume they want a finished 2-1/2 x 2-1/2, that's the way it normally works. Can you add the dimensions on a side in those plans and determine that for sure? Add up the widths or lengths of a section and see if you get the correct overall dimension. I see a possible problem with that though in the bottom frame. They call for 6" long screws to put together two 3x3 pieces. Unless there is something in the plans to account for that you'll have a screw sticking out an inch if the finished dimensions are 2-1/2". That would not be good.

You said you purchased those plans, I suspect they were not inexpensive. With the not-readily-available sizes they call for you might still be better off looking for other plans, that wood might be expensive. If you price out what the materials for that coop would actually cost you may find it better to look for something else.

I think Red made a good point. Can you give us a link to those plans so we can see what the final product looks like and tell us how many chickens you plan to have? I don't know your experience with chickens, but many of us have chickens and understand what is required for them. A lot of prefabricated coops are designed to be pretty, not functional, and don't suit chickens at all. It's possible those plans are the same, pretty but not functional. They may have more nests than needed which doesn't hurt the functionality of it but is a pure waste of extra materials and labor to piece them together. Often the roosts are not positioned correctly or the coop is difficult to clean or access for maintenance. Quite often the coops are advertised to be able to hold two or three times as many chickens that they really can comfortably. This last one is truly common. You may already know enough to handle all this yourself but if you need help with this some of us can help.

In your climate you don't have to worry about cold at all, you will need a lot of ventilation though. For some circumstances I understand pretty is very important, either for yourself and your standards or to not upset your neighbors by putting up a "redneck" structure that will bring housing prices down in the neighborhood. Something else to consider are your carpentry skills and what tools you have to use to construct it. That appears to have a lot of precisely cut pieces that will require some pretty good fit-up. There is a lot that goes into choosing the right coop.

 

[catjac1975]

Hello, all,

Recently I've purchased DYI chicken coop plan with an included material list, but I'm not so sure if it's made according to the US standards and if I'll be able to find all materials in some shop in Houston where I live

Please check the pictures I've attached. Can anyone help me on this issue?

Thanks a lot in advance!

View attachment 22269 View attachment 22270

I am no builder, but it seems to me sticking to 2 X 4 's would be the most economical. I would not use such flimsy plywood-I would use 1/2 inch. Seems like there should be an easier plan available. My husband designs our chicken coops based on 4 X 8 sheets of plywood. Your plans look like a ton of wood.