Planning the 2011 garden and need some help

[Jared77]

Anybody have a link on recommendations on how much space per plant, and planting suggestions? Garden was expanded BIG time before the snow hit, and want to plan this out on paper and have it laid out before I order seeds or lift a shovel.

Something general like tomatoes need ____ per square foot or they need this many sq per plant. Cucumbers need _____, sweet peppers need _____ Id REALLY appreciate it.

Thank you!

Jared

 

[StupidBird]

I am trying out the garden planning software just offered recently FREE this year, from mother earth news. It seems pretty good....has default settings for spacing, varieties can be entered, custom spacing, time in the ground by month. Anyone else looking at this software? I put in my zip code and it shows seed starting, transplanting and harvest date ranges. Let's see how this actually happens this year.

 

[wifezilla]

I think for tomatoes, they always need 2 x more space than you allow for them regardless of the variety.

But maybe it's just me...

 

[curly_kate]

Totally agree with WZ! I tend to plant everything closer together than recommended, but you definitely want to give your tomatoes plenty of room!

 

[seedcorn]

I also crowd everything. Works for me as long as I mulch w/straw and water/fertilize as plants show needs. I actually till in 18-18-18, then plant, then straw. I haven't done study if I'm hurting the plants as I always end up w/more plants than space. When one plant matures, replace it w/something else. Beets done, plant late cabbage. Beans done, plant volunteer pepper plants or start some greens, basil, or cilantro.

With tomatoes, if you use cage, wire/string, etc, can crowd them even more. I don't so they go all over--no problem as I plant way more than I use or give away.

 

[OaklandCityFarmer]

Hi there.

In general spacing depends on a few factors.

1. Soil. If your soil is well drained, full of nutrients (and you add compost as needed), dug well, and mulched it should be able to maintain a large amount of vegetable plants.

2. Crops. Plant crops that need more of a certain nutrient with others that need less or even help supply that nutrient (corn and beans)

3. Water. Understanding the water needs of your crops in your own soil is extremely important. Some crops will need more water, some less, using mulch and cover crops will help reduce water needs.

There are different methods of spacing that range from your own need and willingness in the garden. We use a bio-intensive method in our garden and do not use the row method. Literally our crops grow amongst, through, and over each other. One thing to remember with this method is that if you are collecting seeds then you need to ensure that no cross pollination occurs.

carlos

 

[HunkieDorie23]

Anybody have a link on recommendations on how much space per plant, and planting suggestions? Garden was expanded BIG time before the snow hit, and want to plan this out on paper and have it laid out before I order seeds or lift a shovel.

Something general like tomatoes need ____ per square foot or they need this many sq per plant. Cucumbers need _____, sweet peppers need _____ Id REALLY appreciate it.

Thank you!

Jared

For a traditional row type garden tomatoes need 2-3 ft between each plant and 3-4 ft between each row. It depends on the type of tomato. Determinate need less space than indeterminate types. Cucumbers need about 3 sq ft for each plant. One of the easiest ways to plant them is on a black garden fabric or plastic. Peppers need about 18 -24" between each plant and about 3 ft between each row. Plants start out small but really spread in July and August. Most of the time your seed packs or plant cards will tell you how to plant them. Some of it depends on the size if your tiller and if you are going to till between your rows or mulch.

I would go to the library and get a book and then decide what type of garden you are going to put in. Are you going to stake your tomatoes or cage them? It all makes a difference. You have plenty of time to plan it our. I always diagram my garden and decide what I am doing before it is actually garden time.

 

[wifezilla]

seedcorn I caged those tomatoes. They totally over grew them. Next year I an using cattle panels!!!

Apparently the key to a big tomato harvest is starting the plants indoor under lights in February, using a post hole digger to plant them really deep, adding a scoop of crushed oyster shell in the hole before you put the tomato in, and mulching with poopy duck bedding.

 

[OaklandCityFarmer]

We grow about 250 plants of tomatoes per year (and about 25-30 varieties) and we use a method similar to what you would see on grapes.

We also heavily prune and train our tomatoes, which when you have 250 plants takes a lot of effort but well worth the time because it helps prevent disease and improves harvest.

You could easily make a PVC fence system using hardware cloth or poultry wire and train them to grow up that. Downside to using uncoated metal fencing is that it heats up and can burn the plants at their tips.

Pruning out suckers goes a long way when it come to tomatoes. Typically we prune for the first part of the growing season and then let them go.

 

[journey11]

I don't have a conglomeration of that info, but I just follow the specs on the back of the seed packs. I have seen several software programs to help you lay out your space on a graph. Usually you have to pay for them, but I think it could be worthwhile.

My one bit of advice though would be not to crowd things because more often than not it will give you poor results. Either they'll not get enough sun or enough nutrients or will become diseased more easily, especially things like tomatoes or cucurbits. I learned my lesson the hard way!