Pruning peach trees

Nyboy

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Actually no tree can be hacked. If large enough branches are cut leaving big wounds you'll see a decline in the tree with rot or death in under 5 years. Trees don't "heal" cuts. They close off and compartmentalize wounds. Some species of trees are just more forgiving than others
One day I will post photos of the pruning my father gave a blue spruce in my yard. Many years ago when I lost track of him he cut off every branch but 4 on very top of tree. He then said it will fill in nicely !!!!!! Tree a very slow grower was about 20 feet tall at the time.:hit:th:he
 

Ridgerunner

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Some trees respond to pruning differently than others. You can kill some trees or kill major branches by being too aggressive when pruning. Peaches will send out suckers and grow back, but not really that vigorously. Their limbs can fairly easily be killed by cutting back too severely. Apples are more vigorous. You can still kill trees or individual limbs by being too severe, but they are more forgiving. I don't think I could kill off my mulberry tree by pruning, it would probably come back from the roots if I cut it down. It's seed grown, not grafted, so that would be OK. Apples and peaches are grafted so you don't want any sprouts below the graft.
 

thistlebloom

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But @thistlebloom isn't it true that many plants (trees included) actually sprout new branches after pruning?

Yes that's true, but they aren't all equal, and different species have different responses to pruning. I was referencing removing large branches mostly. Apple trees are vigorous growers and need annual pruning to open the canopy for better photosynthesis, as one example. Other fruit trees have different responses to pruning.

The problem with cutting major branches from any tree, is the large wound it exposes, and that leaves the tree vulnerable to pests and disease entering the wound. The bigger the cut, the longer it will take the tree to compartmentalize and seal that wound off. Wound dressings have been found to retard that process or even seal in moisture that leads to rot, so are currently frowned on by good arborists.

Moderation is the key, and going slowly and thoughtfully. You can't put back what you take off.

Young trees are the best candidates for structural pruning, when you are developing their frame, but obviously it is sometimes necessary to take large limbs from mature trees. Then you do it correctly and do your best to keep the tree healthy.


One day I will post photos of the pruning my father gave a blue spruce in my yard. Many years ago when I lost track of him he cut off every branch but 4 on very top of tree. He then said it will fill in nicely !!!!!! Tree a very slow grower was about 20 feet tall at the time.:hit:th:he

Nyboy, that's a good example of different species and how they respond to pruning.

I have smoke trees (Cotinus coggygria) that I keep as shrubs.
They respond beautifully to pruning and you can pollard or coppice them annually and they come back with vigor. Some other shrubs can be rejuvenated by coppicing also, it's a matter of knowing what you have and how it grows to keep pruning beneficial and not damaging.

I see Ridge has responded while I've been typing, so what he says also.
Journey gave you good advice too.
 

ducks4you

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I'm not an expert on pruning. I never pruned my old, 20 ft. tall Golden Delicious apple tree and pruned my old peach tree too late. Both died. I only know from a neighbor that both had been planted some 35 years before they died. I listen to the experts on Mid American Gardener and they usually recommend 1/3 or less live wood pruned on fruit trees that are regularly and yearly pruned and no more than 1/4 total live wood on a tree that has been neglected. What I do know is that the year I heavily pruned my 5 grape vines I took most of the fruit, too! However, the vines were healthier the year after that. It's time for me to vigorously prune my grapes again because I've skipped two years.
I wrote MAG an email about fruit tree pruning and their tree expert gave a short tutorial on their show. He said to cut the suckers and the waterspouts. They grow straight up and usually do not produce any fruit, so they are taking nutrients away from the fruit bearing limbs. Then he suggested looking at where branches cross. They will rub against each other, so it's best to take one and leave one. Then, look to open up the middle of the fruit tree for better air flow. HE said no more than 1/3 of LIVE wood. I don't remember how far back to cut below the dead branches, but when my pear tree got blight (which they get through Spring blossoms on a wet year, like 2016,) to trim back 8 inches into the live wood. So far, it looks like the pear tree will make it, but if it doesn't, I'll replace it. I tried to pick up and remove (burned) All of the dead leaves from the compromised branches, but didn't take very much live wood at all last year.
I have heard that you can make mistakes on apple trees, but I haven't hacked either my red (very sweet--No CLUE as to what kind) apple tree, or the Golden Delicious that ended up in my horse's turnout after fence replacement. That one had a dead limb that I took last year. I need to prune it this year. I see the green apples on it, and then...nothing, bc my horses believe that it is Their tree and they clean all of the apples off of it, and those that are beyond reach and fall to the ground. (Doesn't Every horse have his own apple tree?!?!?)
 

bobm

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Put a few wheel barrows full of manure on your trees in the dead of winter and you will be rewarded.
:thumbsup
You mean at the drip line?
Yes, and beyond. When I clean the stalls, I spread out the manure + urine soaked shavings around the trees 6 + inches thick. The tree leaves turn a dark green and I get a bumper fruit crop. Always prune and spray all fruit trees with appropriate sprays to have healthy and productive trees. :)
 
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