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- #81
MontyJ
Deeply Rooted
I don't have a lot of time. Work has been crazy lately and working on the other house is starting to take up more and more of my free time. But...
I want to talk about the cations and base saturations a bit. For this to make a little more sense, you need to understand that there are both acidic and basic cations. Hydrogen (H) and Aluminum (Al) are both acidic. Calcium (Ca), Potassium (K) and Magnesium (Mg) are all basic. Basic, in this sense, doesn't mean basic as in common, everyday variety, but alkaline, if you will. The opposite of acidic in other words. OK, onward.
Let's look at another soil sample:
pH : 6.0
Buffer pH : 6.7
Phosphorus (P) : 152ppm (very high)
Potassium (K) : 193ppm (optimum)
Calcium (Ca) : 2122ppm (low optimum)
Magnesium (Mg) : 200ppm (low-medium)
Sulfur (S) : 16ppm (low-medium)
Boron (B) : 0.6ppm (low medium)
Copper (Cu) : 2.2ppm (optimum
Iron (Fe) : 168ppm (very high)
Manganese (Mn) : 92 (very high)
Zinc (Zn) : 4.7ppm (optimum)
Organic Matter (OM) : 4.6
CEC : 15.1
Saturations:
K : 3.3
Ca : 70.3
Mg : 11.0
H : 15.4
If you actually do the math, you will find that the CEC differs slightly from what the lab reported. Remember that the formulas are only for a close estimate.
What stands out in this test report are two things: Good CEC, low pH. The total base saturation is 84.6%, leaving 15.1% for H. H is acidic. Also Fe and Mn are very high, both are a factor of a low pH. As pH increases, both Fe and Mn become less available to plants.
So, what's the cure? Adding lime will work, but there are many different types of garden lime. In this case, Dolomite would be the correct choice. Why? Dolomite has a higher Mg content than many other types of lime. Mg is low in this test having only 11% of the CEC sites. So adding 25-30 pounds per 1000 square feet would increase the Mg CEC saturation (as well as adding some Ca) causing the pH to rise which would, in turn, cause less Fe and Mn to be available. That would result in the Ca and Mg rising to optimum levels and the Fe and Mn to decrease to optimum levels. Since the pH is balancing out and additional Ca and Mg are available on the CEC sites, that must mean the H% is now lower (it has to be if the pH went up).
Using this example, you can see how pH is affected by the saturations.
A few other things of note:
The S and B are low. I would wait until after a season of letting the dolomite work before adjusting either one. It may sound strange to want to add sulfur to an acidic soil, but the amount needed to bring it up to a more desirable level is very small and would have almost no affect on pH. Boron, on the other hand, is a very tricky thing to adjust. It can be plant toxic at levels as low as 4ppm. Once the pH levels out, I would re-test and see where the B is. If still low, I would add one can of 20 Mule Team borax per 1000 square feet.
Finally, let's look at the that very high P level. Personally, I wouldn't call that very high. High maybe. Remember that P does not occupy CEC sites and is not mobile in the soil. The soil has to reserve it in place. Most of the P in the soil is in the form of organo-phosphates and inorgano-phosphates. It's not always available to plants. When people speak of their concern about fertilizer run-off it's really P they are talking about (even if they don't know it). Since it's not held in the soil via the CEC, some of it is free to run off. Much of it gets locked into the soil through chemical bonding, but if a field is over fertilized with phosphate ferts, run-off will occur. Adding a balanced fertilizer to this garden would be a mistake.
If this seems broken and dis-jointed, it's because I can only type a little at a time in the early morning or late evening and save it as a document to post all at once. My apologies.
I want to talk about the cations and base saturations a bit. For this to make a little more sense, you need to understand that there are both acidic and basic cations. Hydrogen (H) and Aluminum (Al) are both acidic. Calcium (Ca), Potassium (K) and Magnesium (Mg) are all basic. Basic, in this sense, doesn't mean basic as in common, everyday variety, but alkaline, if you will. The opposite of acidic in other words. OK, onward.
Let's look at another soil sample:
pH : 6.0
Buffer pH : 6.7
Phosphorus (P) : 152ppm (very high)
Potassium (K) : 193ppm (optimum)
Calcium (Ca) : 2122ppm (low optimum)
Magnesium (Mg) : 200ppm (low-medium)
Sulfur (S) : 16ppm (low-medium)
Boron (B) : 0.6ppm (low medium)
Copper (Cu) : 2.2ppm (optimum
Iron (Fe) : 168ppm (very high)
Manganese (Mn) : 92 (very high)
Zinc (Zn) : 4.7ppm (optimum)
Organic Matter (OM) : 4.6
CEC : 15.1
Saturations:
K : 3.3
Ca : 70.3
Mg : 11.0
H : 15.4
If you actually do the math, you will find that the CEC differs slightly from what the lab reported. Remember that the formulas are only for a close estimate.
What stands out in this test report are two things: Good CEC, low pH. The total base saturation is 84.6%, leaving 15.1% for H. H is acidic. Also Fe and Mn are very high, both are a factor of a low pH. As pH increases, both Fe and Mn become less available to plants.
So, what's the cure? Adding lime will work, but there are many different types of garden lime. In this case, Dolomite would be the correct choice. Why? Dolomite has a higher Mg content than many other types of lime. Mg is low in this test having only 11% of the CEC sites. So adding 25-30 pounds per 1000 square feet would increase the Mg CEC saturation (as well as adding some Ca) causing the pH to rise which would, in turn, cause less Fe and Mn to be available. That would result in the Ca and Mg rising to optimum levels and the Fe and Mn to decrease to optimum levels. Since the pH is balancing out and additional Ca and Mg are available on the CEC sites, that must mean the H% is now lower (it has to be if the pH went up).
Using this example, you can see how pH is affected by the saturations.
A few other things of note:
The S and B are low. I would wait until after a season of letting the dolomite work before adjusting either one. It may sound strange to want to add sulfur to an acidic soil, but the amount needed to bring it up to a more desirable level is very small and would have almost no affect on pH. Boron, on the other hand, is a very tricky thing to adjust. It can be plant toxic at levels as low as 4ppm. Once the pH levels out, I would re-test and see where the B is. If still low, I would add one can of 20 Mule Team borax per 1000 square feet.
Finally, let's look at the that very high P level. Personally, I wouldn't call that very high. High maybe. Remember that P does not occupy CEC sites and is not mobile in the soil. The soil has to reserve it in place. Most of the P in the soil is in the form of organo-phosphates and inorgano-phosphates. It's not always available to plants. When people speak of their concern about fertilizer run-off it's really P they are talking about (even if they don't know it). Since it's not held in the soil via the CEC, some of it is free to run off. Much of it gets locked into the soil through chemical bonding, but if a field is over fertilized with phosphate ferts, run-off will occur. Adding a balanced fertilizer to this garden would be a mistake.
If this seems broken and dis-jointed, it's because I can only type a little at a time in the early morning or late evening and save it as a document to post all at once. My apologies.