Tomatoes are flowering.

jackb

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Our weather continues to be cooler than normal this spring. Last night the temperature was 32F, and tonight through the rest of the week the temperature at night will be cold. These temperatures are too low to bother running the heater in the greenhouse at night, so I am bringing the plants indoors in the evening and back to the greenhouse in the morning. It is really getting to be a chore, but it is not bothering the plants. Most of the tomatoes intended for the greenhouse are flowering, so I may get an early harvest, and perhaps two plantings this season. The tomato in the photo is called Tropic. I guess it is for growing down south, but it really thrives in the greenhouse. The seeds came from Southern Exposure Seed Exchange and cost much much less than greenhouse varieties. For about four dollars I received hundreds of seeds several years ago and I have been growing them ever since; they are not hybrids so seed saving is possible.

Jack B

 

jackb

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catjac1975 said:
So sturdy-They don't look like they even need the support.
They probably don't. My wife bought a package of kabob skewers and I wanted to try them. Most likely I will plant them next week in the greenhouse, if the temperatures improves a little. At that point, they will be supported by twine and vine clip,s as they are indeterminate, and will get to about five feet before I top them off.

Jack B
 

lesa

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I'm so jealous- I am not sure I even like you anymore!! :lol: Hey, my tomatoes have true leaves!
 

Faith.M

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Here something I was told... if you have a fan blowing on them the stems get stronger. Is this true? I got a shoot today! Very happy just need to get and plant some more now I went and bought more pots :)
 

jackb

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Faith.M said:
Here something I was told... if you have a fan blowing on them the stems get stronger. Is this true? I got a shoot today! Very happy just need to get and plant some more now I went and bought more pots :)
That is true, it strengthens the stem. Lacking a fan, you can also gently move them a little from side to side using your fingers a few times a day. Plants use the CO2 around the leaf surfaces quickly, and a fan will move the air around to bring CO2 to the leaves.

Good luck with your plants.

Jack B
 

Faith.M

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Thanks jack! One shoot and lots more to go! When I get them all off my kitchen table and into my green house I will give that fan a go. Can't wait for it to warm up out there!
 

Smiles Jr.

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Hi Faith - I have always used a fan on my tomato starts, too. I was taught many years ago that a breeze strengthens the stalks and also reduces the "damping off" of the plants. Damping off if a condition where the stalk shrinks in size right at the point where the stalk emerges from the soil. The plant usually dies and falls over. I was told that it's a fungus type of infection that occurs right at the surface of the soil when it stays too damp for long periods of time.

Here's an excerpt from the University of California Pest Management Guidelines:

SYMPTOMS AND SIGNS OF "DAMPING OFF"

Seedlings affected by damping-off fail to emerge or fall over and die soon after emergence. Stems usually have a dark, shriveled portion at the soil line. Damping-off is generally limited to areas where drainage is poor or where soil is compacted, but whole fields can be affected, especially in early plantings exposed to rain.
COMMENTS ON THE DISEASE

"Damping-off" is a general term for the death of seedlings, either before or after emergence, under damp conditions. It is mainly an early season problem, causing the greatest losses in cool, wet soils.

Fungi that cause damping-off occur in all soils where tomatoes are grown, and they infect tomatoes when the soil is wet. Infection is most common under cool conditions, although both Phytophthora and Rhizoctonia can also infect seedlings in warmer soils. Once tomato seedlings reach the 2- or 3-leaf stage, they are no longer susceptible to infection by Pythium or Rhizoctonia; however, Phytophthora can infect tomato plants at any stage. Damping-off due to Pythium may increase where green manures such as volunteer grain are worked into the soil just before planting. Damping-off does not necessarily carry over from one season to another in the same places but appears only when and where conditions favor infection.
MANAGEMENT

Proper field and seedbed preparation and good water management significantly reduce losses from damping-off. By using sprinklers for germination, you keep better control of water and lessen the chance of infection. If possible, avoid planting when the soil is cool; seeds germinate faster and seedlings are more vigorous when the soil is warm, so they are less likely to be damaged. The use of fungicide seed treatments can help prevent damping-off. When seedling loss is extensive, replanting may be necessary.
 
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