Tomatoes are flowering.

[digitS']

I imagine that fans help with mold on the soil surface, also. One fungus or another . . .

The best thing that I've been able to do with mold is just to get the container outside for a few hours of fresh air and maybe a touch of sunlight. That has been nearly impossible so far this spring.

Looking at the 2 remote thermometers this morning, I was just thinking how a fan running overnight in the hoop house provides for much more consistent temperatures in there. The greenhouse, with it 9' high peak, has layers of air at different temperatures. The furnace runs with a fan but continuous air movement would be more helpful to the plants.

Steve
trying to think of where a greenhouse fan could go next year

 

[Faith.M]

Hi Faith - I have always used a fan on my tomato starts, too. I was taught many years ago that a breeze strengthens the stalks and also reduces the "damping off" of the plants. Damping off if a condition where the stalk shrinks in size right at the point where the stalk emerges from the soil. The plant usually dies and falls over. I was told that it's a fungus type of infection that occurs right at the surface of the soil when it stays too damp for long periods of time.

Here's an excerpt from the University of California Pest Management Guidelines:

SYMPTOMS AND SIGNS OF "DAMPING OFF"

Seedlings affected by damping-off fail to emerge or fall over and die soon after emergence. Stems usually have a dark, shriveled portion at the soil line. Damping-off is generally limited to areas where drainage is poor or where soil is compacted, but whole fields can be affected, especially in early plantings exposed to rain.
COMMENTS ON THE DISEASE

"Damping-off" is a general term for the death of seedlings, either before or after emergence, under damp conditions. It is mainly an early season problem, causing the greatest losses in cool, wet soils.

Fungi that cause damping-off occur in all soils where tomatoes are grown, and they infect tomatoes when the soil is wet. Infection is most common under cool conditions, although both Phytophthora and Rhizoctonia can also infect seedlings in warmer soils. Once tomato seedlings reach the 2- or 3-leaf stage, they are no longer susceptible to infection by Pythium or Rhizoctonia; however, Phytophthora can infect tomato plants at any stage. Damping-off due to Pythium may increase where green manures such as volunteer grain are worked into the soil just before planting. Damping-off does not necessarily carry over from one season to another in the same places but appears only when and where conditions favor infection.
MANAGEMENT

Proper field and seedbed preparation and good water management significantly reduce losses from damping-off. By using sprinklers for germination, you keep better control of water and lessen the chance of infection. If possible, avoid planting when the soil is cool; seeds germinate faster and seedlings are more vigorous when the soil is warm, so they are less likely to be damaged. The use of fungicide seed treatments can help prevent damping-off. When seedling loss is extensive, replanting may be necessary.

Intresting stuff thank you. At the moment i have just the one shoot come through but my pumpkins exploded over night. I do have a layer of cling film over the top and its all staying damp the pumpkins are thriving on it but do you think I should take it off the tomatoes then?!

 

[jackb]

The greenhouse was opened for the season on the last day of April, and I have the tomato plants attached to twine with vine clips to support them. This year I added one trusty old Rutgers plant, which was released in 1938, to see how it compares to the specialized greenhouse varieties. It is a sturdy plant with lots of flowers and the trusses are only a few inches apart. It should be interesting.

 

[arienwolf]

Beautiful tomatoes!! And yes, VERY sturdy looking!