Your Thoughts And Recommendations, Please!

[TerryLP]

Hi Everyone, I am trying to decide on my timeline and schedule for my 2018 garden.

First, in my schedule for February is to go ahead and till up the garden area. I haven’t planted anything there in over a year. It is all covered with grass at the moment. I thought it would be good to get it thoroughly tilled up at least two or three times before planting time.

(Off to a grand start. Went yesterday and found that my tiller won’t start. I’ll get fixed this week or next)

Second, once I have it tilled, I’ll take soil samples down to the Agriculture Department and have it tested to see what it’s going to need.

Third, I am considering doing something that I have attempted before. That is starting my plants from seed. In the past I have always purchased pre-started plants at the hardware store or nursery. This year I am backed up by the best community of advice that money can buy. What could possibly go wrong?

Right now my plans are to put plants in the ground at the end of March or the beginning of April. This should put me past the last of the frosts. So, assuming that this is a reasonable plan,
1:when should I start planting the seeds in the little containers?
2:which kind of containers would you recommend for seed starting?

Last of all (at least for the moment) what should I be doing, or at least thinking about, that I have not even considered as yet?

 

[Zeedman]

Your pre-planting strategy sounds good, in terms of knocking down the grass & perennial weeds to controllable numbers. Just be aware that you will still have to deal with the annual weeds, which may not germinate until the soil warms... how bad those would be will depend upon how much went to seed there during the time the site was fallow.

The soil test is a good idea also; any recommended amendments could be turned under while you are tilling. Amendments to soil pH (if necessary) should be turned under early, they benefit from having time to "perk" before anything is planted.

1 - hard to give planting dates without knowing your location, and what you intend to grow. For most states, you can get recommended planting dates (both indoors and out) from your local Extension office. Wisconsin has a gardener's guide that not only provides those dates, but has a list of varieties recommended for our climate. For me, I take the expected transplant date & count backwards:
- 90+ days for onion seedlings
- 60 days (or longer) for habaneros & some super-hot peppers
- 45 days for eggplants, tomatoes, & most peppers
Those dates can be lengthened if you intend to use larger transplants... but see #3 below.

2 - the best containers for starting most transplants are plastic. Almost any container can be used, from square nursery cells to plastic drinking cups... but be sure that the containers have holes in the bottom for drainage. You will get the best results, and fewer failures, if using a sterile soil-less seed starting mix, and sterile water. If chlorinated tap water is used, allow it to breathe over-night in an open container.

To add to your list:
3: What is the best location & light source to raise healthy seedlings? If only raising a few transplants, a sunny south-facing window might be adequate. This should be full sun, for at least 8 hours or longer. Because of shading though, you could only grow a single row of transplants effectively on a window sill, unless supplemental overhead lighting was provided. A reflector placed behind the plants is helpful (especially as the plants get larger) but be careful to allow enough air flow to prevent the plants from being "cooked". For larger numbers of transplants, the options are (a) hot bed; (b) greenhouse; or (c) artificial lighting indoors. Once you have chosen which method to use, I or others can provide more detailed information.

Be prepared for the possibility of failure... I (and probably most who grow their own plants) have experienced losses at some point, and still do occasionally. It is a learning experience, and you'll get better over time. In my experience, the most common causes of failure are:
(1) improper watering - and actually, over watering (or lack of drainage) is the most common cause of seedling death
(2) inadequate light
(3) low temperatures (such as a frosty window, or poorly warmed greenhouse or hot bed)

 

[Carol Dee]

A belated Welcome to TEG from me over in Eastern Iowa, Zone 4 (or 5 depending on map looked at!)
Our last frost date is well into April or is that May? It will help others to answer if they know you general area. Do you know your planting zone? My husband always gets too excited and plants things indoor in JANUARY! So we have some REALLY BIG transfers. I think the recommendation for most plants is about 6 weeks before you can set them out.

 

[majorcatfish]

Your pre-planting strategy sounds good, in terms of knocking down the grass & perennial weeds to controllable numbers. Just be aware that you will still have to deal with the annual weeds, which may not germinate until the soil warms... how bad those would be will depend upon how much went to seed there during the time the site was fallow.

The soil test is a good idea also; any recommended amendments could be turned under while you are tilling. Amendments to soil pH (if necessary) should be turned under early, they benefit from having time to "perk" before anything is planted.

1 - hard to give planting dates without knowing your location, and what you intend to grow. For most states, you can get recommended planting dates (both indoors and out) from your local Extension office. Wisconsin has a gardener's guide that not only provides those dates, but has a list of varieties recommended for our climate. For me, I take the expected transplant date & count backwards:
- 90+ days for onion seedlings
- 60 days (or longer) for habaneros & some super-hot peppers
- 45 days for eggplants, tomatoes, & most peppers
Those dates can be lengthened if you intend to use larger transplants... but see #3 below.

2 - the best containers for starting most transplants are plastic. Almost any container can be used, from square nursery cells to plastic drinking cups... but be sure that the containers have holes in the bottom for drainage. You will get the best results, and fewer failures, if using a sterile soil-less seed starting mix, and sterile water. If chlorinated tap water is used, allow it to breathe over-night in an open container.

To add to your list:
3: What is the best location & light source to raise healthy seedlings? If only raising a few transplants, a sunny south-facing window might be adequate. This should be full sun, for at least 8 hours or longer. Because of shading though, you could only grow a single row of transplants effectively on a window sill, unless supplemental overhead lighting was provided. A reflector placed behind the plants is helpful (especially as the plants get larger) but be careful to allow enough air flow to prevent the plants from being "cooked". For larger numbers of transplants, the options are (a) hot bed; (b) greenhouse; or (c) artificial lighting indoors. Once you have chosen which method to use, I or others can provide more detailed information.

Be prepared for the possibility of failure... I (and probably most who grow their own plants) have experienced losses at some point, and still do occasionally. It is a learning experience, and you'll get better over time. In my experience, the most common causes of failure are:
(1) improper watering - and actually, over watering (or lack of drainage) is the most common cause of seedling death
(2) inadequate light
(3) low temperatures (such as a frosty window, or poorly warmed greenhouse or hot bed)

very nice z-man could not say it any better....

 

[TerryLP]

Thanks Zeedman. You sure gave me a lot to think about.
I apologize about not including my location, I should have thought about that. I live in St. Augustine, Florida right near the World Golf Village. I believe that is in Zone 9.

 

[TerryLP]

Hi to you also, and thanks Ms.Carol.

 

[RUNuts]

Zone 9. According to my planting table, middle of February (last frost date) for planting outdoors for the spring crops before it gets too hot and everything bursts into flames. Then August and September for the fall crops. Fasten your seatbelt, we've got a lot to do.

I put 6"+ woodchips down 6 months ago and the grasses are still popping through. I'm hesitant to start the back garden. My option is to fence it and put the birds over it to raze. This will give time for the current flight cage to recover. But, I want a garden. Solution is plant a garden, deal with weeds and turn the birds loose in July to prep it for the fall run. Patience.

 

[TerryLP]

Thanks RUNuts for the confirmation. I thought it was Zone 9, but was not sure.
I don’t think that we will do any flame bursting, at least we will try not to have any of that. Winter is much more of a problem. It keeps coming and going. We’ve been in the mid 70s lately. Now it’s raining bringing back the cold. We are going to have mid to upper 30s all next week.

 

[RUNuts]

Last frost date average is march 1-10 for St. Augustine. A little bit after mine of 15 February.

Around 1 August, I feel that I will burst into flames. Walk outside, sweat everything I drank for the last month and POOF! Gone in flames.

We've got 60s this week and will dip back into the 30s (maybe). Chance this will be the last hurrah.

What garden method are you pursuing? I'm attempting the Back to Eden or no dig methods. Heavy mulch. Much patience. The birds will get to redecorate after I retreat. Will be interesting. I've attempted gardens before but with small children, it was back burner.

Best wishes to you! Have you watched utube and greendreamsFL? Does some amazing stuff.

 

[baymule]

I'm in Zone 8 so I am not too far behind you. I have already started some seeds in flats (inside) and will be planting more. Last year I planted squash seeds outside in the first of March. Last year I set out tomato plants the first of April.

Yeah, @RUNuts is right, by July or August everything is burnt except the weeds. I grow some bodacious giant ragweed. It can get over my head! I pull it for the sheep, they love the stuff!

I use peat pellets, just add water and they grow! LOL Last year I bought a box of 1,000 for $99. Shoot, this year I found a box of 2,000 for $102.95!!!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWMB93K/ref=pe_225750_269362800_em_1p_6_ti

I put the pellets in these trays....

https://www.amazon.com/Plant-Growin...=1517198287&sr=1-7&keywords=seed+starter+tray

I usually spread trays all over the dining table with fluorescent lights over them and in that ridiculous garden tub (the only time it really IS a garden tub!) But this year I got a stand up 8 shelf greenhouse with a plastic cover, I've bought LED lights for it (waiting on the lights now) I'll be posting pics on my 2018 garden thread,

https://www.theeasygarden.com/threads/baymules-2018-garden.21332/

Welcome to the world of growing from seeds! I order from

https://www.rareseeds.com/store/

https://www.southernexposure.com/

https://www.seedsavers.org/search