We have dozens of squash this year, would like to keep them for as long as possible, how do we do it? Can we keep them in the crawl space like the potatoes? Really don't want to feed them all to the chickens.
We store Winter squash every year for the holidays. Many usually last into the WInter season. Hope these tips are helpful for you. If your crawl space is working well for potato storage, then squash will probably do well there.:
- Harvest winter squash when the "ground spot" changes from white to a cream or golden color. Make sure the rind is hard.
- Bring winter squashes and pumpkins in well before the first cold snap. They're susceptible to low temperature injury at less than 50 degrees. Injury from cold causes premature decay in storage. Once the weather gets below about 50 degrees for more than a week, or there is an extended period of rain, they should be brought in for storage.
- Leave the stems on. Cut stems - don't break them off. They should last six months if properly stored, especially if the stem is cut off and the stem area is well healed.
- Try not to drop, scratch, bruise or pile your squashes on top of one another. Injured squash spoils quickly.
- Cure squashes after harvesting them by holding them at warm, dry temperatures for a few days until any abrasions or cuts from harvesting heal up.
- Store most winter squashes as close to 50 degrees as possible and between 70 and 80 percent humidity for best results. Good air circulation in the storage area is also helpful. Do not store squash in layers. Avoid storing them near the ground or floor where the humidity is highest. A layer of straw helps keep them dry.
- Avoid storing them on paper or in paper or plastic bags. Bags tend to hold in too much moisture. An attic or high garage shelf, if kept above 50 degrees, may work well.
- Under proper storage conditions, acorn squashes will last from five to eight weeks, butternut squashes from two to three months and Turban and Buttercup should keep at least three months.
- Keep an eye on them, and remove any that develop soft spots.
The basement shelves are also where my squash find a home and I'll second the vote for good air circulation.
Allowing the squash to fully mature is important and something I have trouble with. There are probably issues of greater concern in warmer parts of the world.
I just became aware of this 50F "risk of low temperature injury." I bet it is true and something to balance this notion of "frost on the pumpkin" idea. Not safe, bring 'em in before.
However, I just went back and looked at last year's growing season temps. The first morning with a temperature below 50 was August 14. This year, the last time it was below 50 was July 14 (July 8 in 'o9). Anyway, I've got a month when overnight temperatures stay above 50.
So, I've got a month . . . I can see that it isn't just reaching maturity that is difficult for the squash.
There is always squash for Thanksgiving "pumpkin" pie but I'd better get them used up before New Years Day. Altho' one year, I had one that stayed good until March.
The Burgess buttercup has always been the best for me. I'm trying a Kabocha again this year. Despite its obvious similarity to buttercup, it hasn't worked for me in the past. We will see how Cha Cha does this time around.
We need research on good storage squash for cool growing seasons (he says, while facing another 90+ afternoon ). Okay, growing seasons with cool mornings . . .
I had some pumpkin, spaghetti squash and acorn squash in a large wire basket in the kitchen for over 4 months with no spoilage. I have no basement, no attic, and the garage freezes...so in the kitchen it went. I just checked regularly and cooked anything that felt like it was getting a little soft.
Field maturing is the first step in getting squash to store properly. When your vines have produced all the squash they can handle the leaves will start turning yellow and dying off. Your leaves will start browning at the edges and often show mildew. Both can be ignored if the vines are dying back. Withold watering at this point and let the ground dry out as the vines die back. If you can get the ground dry you don't have to worry about the squash rotting where they touch it. Let the vines die off on their own if possible. Squash matured in this way will store the longest. If you get rain or cannot get the ground dry you will have to pick earlier, usually when most leaves are yellow, to avoid rot in the field.
I was told when piking to leave a sizable piece of the vine on there (a couple of inches) and add wax to the tip for extra long storage. Then save in a cool place. Though, Mother Earth News Magazine suggesting keeping them under your bed!!!