w_r_ranch
Garden Addicted
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2014
- Messages
- 369
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- 800
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- Location
- South Central Texas (zone 8b)
As a rancher, I can tell you that setting a wood post in concrete is a recipe for rot.
If you want posts to last, use a naturally rot-resistant wood, such as western red cedar. Properly installed, they will last for decades if treated with wood preservative (such as copper naphthenate). You can either brush it on repeatably or soak them standing up in a 55 gal drum.
Then dig a hole two to three times the diameter of the fence post & 24" to 48" deep (I do 36" here). The posts stand upright best when you bury one-third of the total post length, but you might not be able to dig as deep, so a minimum of 24 inches is acceptable. A portion of the copper naphthenate treated wood should be exposed above ground.
Now fill the hole with about 6 inches of 1/4" gravel, which contains small gravel pieces as well as gravel dust for better compaction. Pack the gravel tight to form a level base with a hand tamper or the blunt end of a digging bar.
Set the post in the hole while holding a level on the side to check for plumb. Fill in the hole around the fence post with more 1/4" gravel packed tight against the sides of the post, tamp down the gravel as you go.
When you are done installing all the posts, you can cut the fence post tops to the desired height with a chain or reciprocating saw, cutting at a slight angle so water runs off the tops instead of pooling up & absorbing into the wood.
Then brush the copper naphthenate wood preservative onto the top of the fence posts where the fresh cut reveals exposed, untreated wood. Apply additional coats after the first coat absorbs into the wood.
I have wood posts that are still solid that I installed 20+ years ago & they will still be here long after I'm dead & gone.
If you want posts to last, use a naturally rot-resistant wood, such as western red cedar. Properly installed, they will last for decades if treated with wood preservative (such as copper naphthenate). You can either brush it on repeatably or soak them standing up in a 55 gal drum.
Then dig a hole two to three times the diameter of the fence post & 24" to 48" deep (I do 36" here). The posts stand upright best when you bury one-third of the total post length, but you might not be able to dig as deep, so a minimum of 24 inches is acceptable. A portion of the copper naphthenate treated wood should be exposed above ground.
Now fill the hole with about 6 inches of 1/4" gravel, which contains small gravel pieces as well as gravel dust for better compaction. Pack the gravel tight to form a level base with a hand tamper or the blunt end of a digging bar.
Set the post in the hole while holding a level on the side to check for plumb. Fill in the hole around the fence post with more 1/4" gravel packed tight against the sides of the post, tamp down the gravel as you go.
When you are done installing all the posts, you can cut the fence post tops to the desired height with a chain or reciprocating saw, cutting at a slight angle so water runs off the tops instead of pooling up & absorbing into the wood.
Then brush the copper naphthenate wood preservative onto the top of the fence posts where the fresh cut reveals exposed, untreated wood. Apply additional coats after the first coat absorbs into the wood.
I have wood posts that are still solid that I installed 20+ years ago & they will still be here long after I'm dead & gone.
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