digitS'
Garden Master
Put your emphasis on how you will keep the weeds from returning for the first year or so, XtreemLee. You don't want them overwhelmingly your veggies. Set things up to make weeding as quick and easy as possible. It's a big garden.
Perennial weeds like quackgrass and bindweed will be right back after a tilling. You have to stop every piece of their roots from growing until you are rid of them.
Even then, they can come back! One university report I was reading said that bindweed seed can lie dormant in a field for over 25 years and still be viable. By the way, I didn't have bindweed show up in one garden I had until I brought in a truckload of cow manure. The plants, apparently, had been growing in the corral.
The seedlings are not hard to kill. Annual weeds like lambsquarters are not hard to kill ... in the first few weeks after the seeds germinate. They become progressively more difficult to take out as time goes by. Leave that perennial bindweed seedling long enough and it will store enuf energy in those tuff to kill roots that tilling will just break and scatter them so that they multiply.
I can say that I much prefer having my gardens in beds but I would not do that unless I had some clear idea of what the weed situation would be on my new, "70' by 100'" garden.
Here is Wishing You a great season and continuing success!
Steve
Perennial weeds like quackgrass and bindweed will be right back after a tilling. You have to stop every piece of their roots from growing until you are rid of them.
Even then, they can come back! One university report I was reading said that bindweed seed can lie dormant in a field for over 25 years and still be viable. By the way, I didn't have bindweed show up in one garden I had until I brought in a truckload of cow manure. The plants, apparently, had been growing in the corral.
The seedlings are not hard to kill. Annual weeds like lambsquarters are not hard to kill ... in the first few weeks after the seeds germinate. They become progressively more difficult to take out as time goes by. Leave that perennial bindweed seedling long enough and it will store enuf energy in those tuff to kill roots that tilling will just break and scatter them so that they multiply.
I can say that I much prefer having my gardens in beds but I would not do that unless I had some clear idea of what the weed situation would be on my new, "70' by 100'" garden.
Here is Wishing You a great season and continuing success!
Steve
Since none of my crops, much less pasture grasses, read the book to only use well composted horse manure, but always seen other greenery friends and relatives immediately grow big and tall right next to and through fresh cow patties and horse road apple piles 
... For my 30' x 50 ' garden for the first year,I only concentrated on preparing the soil to correct the soil imbalance, tilth, and eliminate as many weed seeds as possible to save on labor on future crops. I first covered it with 6 inches of a week's worth of fresh horse manure with wood shavings right out of the barn , disced it in, covered with another 6" of manure, disced, another 6" manure, disced in, watered and then let the weeds grow to 2-4" disced in, watered again, let weeds sprout then disced again. All the while adding fresh manure daily right from the barn. At each discing I also added some ammonium sulfate to aid in decomposition of the manure as the rangeland erosion soil was deficient in just about everything and basic. By fall most of the weeds are gone, so the garden area was ready for another discing and then winter crops and cover crops were planted followed by edible crops in the spring. Every spring I add at least a 1" to 2" solid cover of fresh horse manure right out of the barn onto the garden, disc it in, form the rows, plant, irrigate and the garden turns green, lush and very productive. Then, daily I took wheelbarrow fulls out of the barn and spread the manure 1" to 2" thick out in the pasture then when the winter/ spring rains come, the pasture grasses immediately start to grow through the manure at least 2 times taller as the surrounding grasses. 
