My Teeny Urban Garden (updated; even more photos post 43/page 5)

[momofdrew]

Nice Jo!!!!

 

[joz]

An update:

Half of my tomatoes have topped their cages (Red Pear, Tigrovy, Sungold... that's a 4' chain link fence, for reference). The other half (Green Zebra, Red Brandywine, and a volunteer.... roma?) are approaching 3'. Everything has blossoms and at least 1 fruit set.

And my melons have gone bugnuts. I'm re-posting the picture from... 10 days ago? for comparison:

I've got red bell peppers coming on (please disregard the runner grass in my weedy bed), and piles of tomatoes. These are Tigrovies, which have been the second-most enthusiastic variety I planted this spring.

But, the Sungolds win. Yum.

 

[SweetMissDaisy]

WOW!! It's all looking GREAT!!

 

[digitS']

You know if you tossed that Sungold, it would disappear in a millisecond, Joz .

Good looking! I was a little apprehensive about your tomatoes from that earlier posting. Good to see those healthy specimens!

Off to get some of my tomatoes out to see the sun :coolsun. Please sun, keep them warm . .

Steve

 

[joz]

Good looking! I was a little apprehensive about your tomatoes from that earlier posting. Good to see those healthy specimens!

Thanks!

If I tossed that tomato, it would bounce off Riley's head (he's still not learned to catch), he'd chase it, chew it, decide he didn't want it, and spit it out. Ungrateful git. He does put on a convincing face, tho.

Those manky leaves were off of a lone tomato that was located in a different bed from these. Since finding them, I pulled out that plant, and have been pretty vigilant checking these remaining 9 plants.

Due to our heavy rains and high humidity, I keep the bottom 6" or so clear of leaves. I've been pulling any with overt insect damage or discoloration. I've done more research on Tomato spotted wilt virus, and have been checking the newest growth for symptoms. So far, so good.

My tomato plants all look pretty darn good, if I do say so myself. This is the best group I've grown yet... tho I may have to give credit to the Espoma Tomato-Tone I'm putting down every few weeks. I think this is the first time I'm not seeing the creeping upward yellow discoloration I've always had.

 

[lesa]

Wonderful! Everything looks beautiful!

 

[jomoncon]

joz, Your toms are looking really, really good. What's your secret for growing heirlooms in New Orleans? Every time I've tried them, the various diseases get to them first. But yours are looking so nice & healthy!
Jo-Ann

 

[joz]

I've never had much luck either, but this time things are going well. Even with the balky ones.

The plants pictured are Red Pear, Tigrovy (first to the top of the cage), and SunGold (prolific bugger). The Green Zebra and Red Brandywine are still around 3' tall, throwing fewer blossoms and setting fewer fruit. But they're all fluffy and bushy and green.

I don't know that I have any special secrets other than several failed tomato attempts and a desire to finally do it right. I blame the heat for doing them in before (and, one time, mites). I thought I'd gotten a late start this year, as I've never done from seed before, but it seems to be working out. Next year I'm'a start the seeds on Christmas.

This is what I've done:

I started all these from seed, on Feb 4, in coco coir. Once they put out true leaves, I watered with a weak seaweed/fish emulsion solution. They were transplanted into red solo cups with a ~50/50 coir and compost mix at about 3 weeks. They were always in the weather, on my covered SE facing back balcony. Transplanted into the garden on March 16 after "hilling" with more 50/50 mix to the top of the cups. Plants were 8" or thereabouts. Set out with approx. 3 tbsp. Espoma Tomato Tone in each planting hole. Side dressed with additional Tomato Tone every 3-4 weeks (I'm bad about keeping to a schedule). Caged. Watered daily for first month out, then every other day (ish).

I've pulled all the leaves from the first 6"-12" up, to prevent dirt splashing on the leaves during rain or watering. I've thinned out some of the leaves to allow more space in the cages and airflow. I've pulled leaves that show more-than-a-little insect damage. I am NOT removing the suckers. I bounce my hand on the cages daily to vibrate/pollinate the blossoms. I have sprayed with spinosad after noticing flea beetles and a tomato plant that may have been infected with Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (it was isolated, but thrips are carriers, and I have thrips too, and so the spinosad is supposed to work on them also).

Secrets? Magic? I found a 20lb bag of Espoma Tomato Tone via Ozbo.com for cheap.
http://ozbo.com/Tomato-Tone-20-Poun...lebase&cvsfa=3688&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=383339323536

 

[digitS']

Everybody has thrips & mites in their gardens, Joz. They are both so small that people have a hard time noticing them.

By the time you can see mites, the plant is often in serious trouble.

Thrips are the "flower bugs." Are they really a problem for tomatoes? . . . production?

Flea beetles are also difficult for people to notice. Usually, they take off as we approach the plants. Some, are loaded with food and "sleeping it off" under pebbles. The damage they do requires looking carefully, as well. Bird shot would make larger holes - up to the point when they shred leaves. Still, they don't usually take it that far - but, stress on the plants must weaken them. I've noticed that the more flea beetle damage, not only are the plants smaller but the ripe fruit comes later. I'm willing to tolerate some damage but when it looks like the plant is being held back, feel that something should be done to help it. I'm glad that spinosad seems to work. I notice that it is now the internal flea dope for dogs, also.

Steve

 

[momofdrew]

ok never heard of spinosad or Espoma Tomato Tone...

Joz your green zebras are gourgous