A Sub for Early Girl

897tgigvib

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I really wonder what would happen if Safeway Cluster F4 was crossed with Early Girl F1, and in the same garden during the same year, Lemon Boy F1 (or its stabilized version) was crossed with Stupice. And then, the following year, each of those F1's were crossed and grown to seed. The year after that grown out and backcrossed to Early Girl F1. From there the following years, there would be a good selection of plants to choose and select for traits. After getting 4 different lines going, each with a desired set of traits, sibling cross them together and begin selecting.

Remember, most disease resistance genes are DOMINANT, which means disease resistance is MORE DIFFICULT to stabilize. That counterintuitive thing, that dominant genes are more difficult to stabilize is very true. D/r will express as D but when crossed with another D/r, as in self pollinated or with another variety or selection having the same D/r does the 7th grade math thing, (D x r) x (D x r) = D/D, D/r, D/r, and r/r so selecting for that D which 3 of 4 show, 2 thirds of those which express the D carry the r. Sorry about the math. What it means is that dominant traits such as disease resistance are more difficult to stabilize.

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BUT NOT IMPOSSIBLE!

Some breeders call a selection for D/D, (for a dominant trait to be fixed and set), they call that kind of selection "Power Selection".

A batch of F2 seeds are planted. Let's simplify it to 4 seeds that happen to be presorted magically so they are exactly according to the statistically correct numbers. It can happen, but not likely. The following 4 seeds are planted: D/D, D/r, D/r, and r/r. Say ya want them resistant to a common Fusarium your soil is infested with, and those Early Girls grow like, no problem baby! And, your Brandywines plop over dead from it before they are a month old.

Really, what the Early Girl breeders did that was tricky, was give them resistance, but it only took one of Early Girl's parents to be resistant to make early Girl also resistant. Early Girl is D/r. You self an Early Girl and you get those 3 gene types for that resistance, D/D, D/r, D/r, and r/r.

Grow those seedlings in your infested soil and the r/r dies within a month just like your brandywines. But you still have 3 plants. 1 has D/D genes, <<<That's the one you want, except you also still have 2 that are D/r, and those 2 will also start you over again selecting next year at almost the same stage you started this year. Unless you do something different selecting.

You have to save seeds separately from each plant! and then grow them all organized the next year. Any that have and show r/r, even a single one out of 20, all those need to be tossed to the garbage, or given to someone without the fusarium problem.

One of 4 on average will have 20 daughter self pollinated seeds, all of which are D/D... FOR THAT SINGLE TRAIT!

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But Early Girl has D/r for several special traits. Plus, the breeders took care to ensure that she could not easily be stabilized, possible, but difficult. That's why I suggest the preliminary crosses. I find nothing is more resistant and tougher than Lemon Boy. And Lemon Boy is stabilizable too. So is Safeway Cluster. Stupice has that Awesome flavor, and Lemon Boy and Safeway Cluster have good flavors too.

So, selecting several lineages of the crosses, stabilizing their selected Dominant traits, and then Sibling cross them together, that should do it.

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I know, someone's gonna say put that in English. What I did was describe it in Neanderthal, as simple as can be. Jared will actually correct me on wordage and usage of the single form D/D instead of "fus1Dx/fus1Djzx, allelic form Chr12s telomeric somotropic...". Lol, the math I kept at Mr. Jones 6th period 7th grade math class, I think distributive property, only slightly modified, simplified. I left out chi square to the 95th percentile, and simply called 20 seeds enough, and for a single trait it should be enough. 12 should be enough for 92 percent accuracy.
 

digitS'

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But, what about just growing Stupice? I know, it may not have the same disease resistance. Or, you may get seed like I did that grows plants with mostly asymmetrical fruit. Somebody's strain didn't like my garden environment.

Marshall, you should follow KCtomato's breeding efforts. The Wild Boar farm folks must be doing the same sorts of things. Maybe they have a blog, too.

Plant breeders are not all in the big seed companies. The backyard breeders are not static. Keith Mueller (KCTomato) has a small field of plants every year and is hip deep in tomatoes. I've got his Gary O Sena again and know that it is a fine choice - just wondering if the season here has enuf time for this Brandywine/Cherokee Purple cross to ripen. It seemed to do okay in 2012 but it would be nice if it does better than okay each year.

There are people doing these crosses every year. How does one keep up?

I went thru Tatiana's Tomatobase and looked at her Early Tomatoes (link) for indeterminate medium slicers. A couple were not available from an earlier seed source.

Urban Beefsteak can be found at Sand Hill Preservation (link) where it is described as " early, Ind, RL, oblate, 6 to 10 oz. red, very productive, one cropper." I don't understand how it can be a indeterminate but a "one cropper" . . ?

Visitation Valley is described and sold by Tatiana (link). "One of the parents is possibly Early Girl," she says.

Nostrano Grosso doesn't have much of a description at Tatiana's or at Double Helix (link) where the seed is sold.

I'm a little surprised that I went thru all that and came up with so few! The "<65 days to maturity" may be just a little too demanding. Tatiana's list is dominated by cherries and determinates.

Steve
 

baymule

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bj taylor said:
i'm hoping to see a southern gardener put some tomato names forward. I would like a tomato I can save the seeds that performs well in the hot south. sweet 100 does that, but I mean slicer. too bad celebrity doesn't fit the bill regarding saving the seeds. it performs so well for me
I planted some Celebrity last year in the fall. I now have some volunteers from the Celebrities and I'm planning on keeping seed. One of the plants has 3 really HUGE tomatoes on it. It is soooooo hard NOT to slice 'em up for fried green tomatoes!

This year I planted
Arkansas Traveler
Cherokee Purple
Orange Icicle
Myona
Riesentraube cherry
and
Blueberry Blend from Wild Boar Farms

BJ, I'll let you know which ones perform the best. I am trying different varieties to see what I like the best. The Arkansas Traveler is loaded with green globes right now, the Orange Icicle is likewise loaded. Cherokee Purple is coming on strong, Myona has one tomato out of 6 plants :/ Riesentraube looks like we will be cherried to death........have dehydrator waiting. :drool And the Blueberry Blend is just for fun.
 

digitS'

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BJ, Porters Pride may be something that you should try.

If I've got the story right, it was just an improvement on Porters. This will be the 3rd season for me to have that little pink saladette. Porters Pride is also called Porter Improved. (You see where I got that idea ;).) It is the slicer and is an 80 day tomato. Porter is quicker and the oldest.

And, it is "oldest" and "old." The Porter Seed Company went out of business shortly after the polyester leisure suit showed up. Stephensville, TX was the home for the company and is about an hour southwest of Fort Worth, according to Google Maps.

Steve
 

Jared77

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Im with you Steve at our house my wife LOVES her Early Girl maters. Flavor, size, timing are what make EG such a favorite. She likes that she can take a single EG and make a sandwich. Slice it up, layer if necessary and no tomato left overs. They are productive and what she wants. So the more I think about it the more I'm not 100% sure I'll ever totally get away from them.

She's fine with my "other tomatoes" and the varieties I've taken a flyer on. She likes that I'm willing to experiment and try new things so long as there are enough EGs. Simple as that.

So Ill keep trying and maybe we'll transition over. Maybe not hard to say.

When I saw the comments about breeding and the comments about Stupice my first thought was "Why not just cull for quality?" Only save seeds from the healthiest, toughest, most productive plants? Keep a high standards and only save the seeds from the very best fruits on the very best plants. We do that now, and that's how people work to get new strains when they breed, so why not apply that same thought when saving seeds? You don't need to save a zillion seeds from a zillion plants. Maybe you only keep seeds from 1 plant? Or 1 fruit?

Then plant those and keep the standard for every year and go from there.

Its a check list:

First look at the plant. Did it grow well? Was it tolerant? How was ALL the fruit off that plant? Was there an abundance of fruit? Did it ripen in time? Evenly?

Then look at the quality of the all the fruit. Cracking? Was the fruit mostly uniform in size?

Then look at the individual fruits you harvest. Is it the best specimen that plant produced? Even shape? Flavor?

Those are the seeds you save the fruit from. Its not just "Oh I need some Stupice seeds so that fruit looks ok lets put those aside to prep for next year." No there's a check list and a bit of science that goes into it. The higher you keep your standards and the more ruthless you are about what you keep the more your quality goes up.

Its not about total production at that point its about quality production. Then its consistent quality production and THEN quantity enters into the equation.

That's how the people who introduce new varieties do it. Why not the home gardener who saves seeds?
 

897tgigvib

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Actually, the smallest self pollinated tomato on a plant's seeds have the same mix of genetics in them as the biggest and best tomato on the plant. ...the only difference i can think of might be the physiological health of the seeds...

The thing about cull selection of a hybrid such as EG is that it will need to be continually done. EG is I am sure, a very HETEROZYGOUS hybrid, especially on the important genes. That means that fully one half of each generation will be randomly heterozygous, fully a quarter homozygous for recessive at individual loci, and fully a quarter homozygous for dominant at individual loci. Randomly individual genes. By culling only you'll only remove certain of the recessive traits for that generation but they will continue the next generation. I do think that is why there is no stabilized EG variety yet, and it's been around for 50 years or so. Lemon Boy easily stabilizes though. Juliet is fun to stabilize to your favorite shape the f2 offers.
 

Jared77

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Actually, the smallest self pollinated tomato on a plant's seeds have the same mix of genetics in them as the biggest and best tomato on the plant. ...the only difference i can think of might be the physiological health of the seeds...
Honestly that's reason enough for me right there. Those rules apply to any seed I save.
 

digitS'

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I thought I'd bring this back since this subject (& some of my 2013 results :p) are showing up!

The last link that Jared posted has some very nice photo's and info - more info here on those tomatoes, altho' the author slipped some hybrids into the list (link).

Early Girl tomatoes are beginning to come on strong. But, here's what I am finding on 2 of the substitute varieties that are in my 2013 garden: Cold Set . . . ? I don't understand - why is this one so late? Maybe Cold Set would be a good choice for a coastal area with continuing cool growing conditions . . . the plants have yet to ripen a tomato :rolleyes:.

Fireworks looks pretty good however I've yet to harvest one larger than 3 ounces. Make that 2 harvested so far - but there are many more on the plants and I don't think there will be any that will be smaller than 3 ounces. Two of the Fireworks plants went to my neighbor and his also have plenty of ripening fruits and many are larger than 3 ounces.

Here is that early, small Fireworks. The tomato on the left is a Buisson. That small size is standard for a Buisson and I don't really see it as something similar to Early Girl. It is more of a variety with cute little tomatoes that have a very juicy nature and happen to be open-pollinated:



Steve
 

seedcorn

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Jared77 said:
Actually, the smallest self pollinated tomato on a plant's seeds have the same mix of genetics in them as the biggest and best tomato on the plant. ...the only difference i can think of might be the physiological health of the seeds...
Honestly that's reason enough for me right there. Those rules apply to any seed I save.
While most of the genetics will be the same, all of them aren't. Environment can make a difference but it's always wiser to take the best fruit for seed to save seed. In open pollinated seed, you get what you save. In hybrid seed, this isn't true.

Steve, dislike tomatoes that have green cores like fireworks. Why not big fan of other tomatoes that others like.
 
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